{"id":1363,"date":"2025-10-21T12:50:13","date_gmt":"2025-10-21T19:50:13","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/extension.wsu.edu\/pnw-gardeners-handbook\/?page_id=1363"},"modified":"2026-04-03T09:21:46","modified_gmt":"2026-04-03T16:21:46","slug":"chapter-14-houseplants","status":"publish","type":"page","link":"https:\/\/extension.wsu.edu\/pnw-gardeners-handbook\/chapter-14-houseplants\/","title":{"rendered":"Chapter 14: Houseplants"},"content":{"rendered":"<div class=\"wsu-hero wsu-width--full wsu-pattern--wsu-light-radial-left  wsu-hero--style-boxed \">\n\t<div class=\"wsu-hero__background\">\n\t\t<div class=\"wsu-image-frame wsu-image-frame--fill\">\n\t<img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/wpcdn.web.wsu.edu\/extension\/uploads\/sites\/62\/2025\/09\/AdobeStock_617703839.jpg\"\n\t\tsrcset=\"https:\/\/wpcdn.web.wsu.edu\/extension\/uploads\/sites\/62\/2025\/09\/AdobeStock_617703839.jpg 1350w, https:\/\/wpcdn.web.wsu.edu\/extension\/uploads\/sites\/62\/2025\/09\/AdobeStock_617703839.jpg 300w, https:\/\/wpcdn.web.wsu.edu\/extension\/uploads\/sites\/62\/2025\/09\/AdobeStock_617703839.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/wpcdn.web.wsu.edu\/extension\/uploads\/sites\/62\/2025\/09\/AdobeStock_617703839.jpg 768w\"\n\t\tsizes=\"(max-width: 1350px) 100vw, 1350px\"\n\t\talt=\"Many green potted houseplants on table indoors.\"\n\t\tstyle=\"object-position: 75% 95%\"\n\t\t\/>\n<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n\t<div class=\"wsu-hero__overlay\">\n\t<\/div>\n\t<div class=\"wsu-hero__content-wrapper\">\n\t\t<div class=\"wsu-hero__inner-content-wrapper\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"wsu-hero__title-wrapper\">\n\t\t\t\t<h1 class=\"wsu-hero__title\">Houseplants<\/h1>\t\t\t\t<div class=\"wsu-hero__caption\">Chapter 14<\/div>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"wsu-hero__content\">\n\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t<\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wsu-max-width--hero wsu-spacing-after--xsmall\"><strong>Toni Gwin<\/strong>, Associate Professor, Pacific County Extension, Washington State University<br>Adapted from Texas Master Gardener Handbook, compiled at Texas A&amp;M University by <strong>Douglas F. Welsh<\/strong>, Professor and Extension Horticulturist, Texas A&amp;M University, College Station, Texas, and <strong>Samuel D. Cotner<\/strong>, Extension Horticulturist, Horticulture Department Professor and Head, Texas A&amp;M University, College Station, Texas<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div style=\"height:10px\" aria-hidden=\"true\" class=\"wp-block-spacer\"><\/div>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity\" \/>\n\n\n<div class=\"wsu-row wsu-row--sidebar-right\" >\r\n    \n<div class=\"wsu-column\"  style=\"\">\r\n\t\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading wsu-font-size--xlarge wsu-heading--style-marked wsu-spacing-after--xxmedium\" id=\"learning-objectives\">Learning Objectives<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<ul>\n<li>Understand basic requirements of houseplants grown indoors.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Know how to care for commonly gifted plants.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Know methods of propagating houseplants.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n<\/div>\r\n\n\n<div class=\"wsu-column\"  style=\"\">\r\n\t\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Topics Covered<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wsu-menu--style-sidebar\">\n<li><a href=\"#ch14-introduction\" data-type=\"internal\" data-id=\"#ch14-introduction\">Introduction<\/a><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><a href=\"#ch14-selecting-indoor-plant\" data-type=\"internal\" data-id=\"#ch14-selecting-indoor-plant\">Selecting an Indoor Plant<\/a><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><a href=\"#ch14-environmental-factors\">Environmental Factors<\/a><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><a href=\"#ch14-planting-media\" data-type=\"internal\" data-id=\"#ch14-planting-media\">Planting Media<\/a><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><a href=\"#ch14-containers\" data-type=\"internal\" data-id=\"#ch14-containers\">Containers<\/a><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><a href=\"#ch14-repotting\" data-type=\"internal\" data-id=\"#ch14-repotting\">Repotting<\/a><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><a href=\"#ch14-training-grooming-sanitation\" data-type=\"internal\" data-id=\"#ch14-training-grooming-sanitation\">Training, Grooming, and Sanitation<\/a><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><a href=\"#ch14-pests-household-plants\" data-type=\"internal\" data-id=\"#ch14-pests-household-plants\">Pests of Household Plants<\/a><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><a href=\"#ch14-care-commonly-gifted-houseplants\" data-type=\"internal\" data-id=\"#ch14-care-commonly-gifted-houseplants\">Care of Commonly Gifted Houseplants<\/a><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><a href=\"#ch14-propagating-houseplants\" data-type=\"internal\" data-id=\"#ch14-propagating-houseplants\">Propagating Houseplants<\/a><\/li>\n\n\n\n<li><a href=\"#ch14-further-reading\" data-type=\"internal\" data-id=\"#ch14-further-reading\">Further Reading<\/a><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n<\/div>\r\n\n<\/div>\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity\" \/>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading  wsu-heading--style-marked\" id=\"ch14-introduction\">Introduction<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>This chapter is designed to familiarize you with the basic aspects of indoor plant care. Bear in mind that in most cases, homes and offices are environments poorly suited to the needs of plants. Thus, the task of the houseplant owner and enthusiast is to select plants that can best withstand the indoor conditions of a specific location. Houseplants, like outdoor plants, are grown for flowers or foliage.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading  wsu-heading--style-marked\" id=\"ch14-selecting-indoor-plant\">Selecting an Indoor Plant<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>Human beings have an innate need to connect with nature even when indoors. Research has shown that bringing plants into your home, office, classroom, or business can create an atmosphere that is warm, inviting, and calming. Plants indoors can even clean our air, promote healing, and lower stress levels.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wsu-spacing-after--xsmall\">Indoors or out, plants require enough light, space, temperature, oxygen, and moisture to thrive, not just survive. When shopping for a new plant to add to your space, look for plants that require the same environmental conditions. It is possible to alter the light, humidity, or temperature of your home or office to suit the plants, but it is more sustainable to select plants that grow well in the conditions you already have in your space. Plant labels are helpful in determining the recommended growing conditions of a potential plant. When selecting a specific individual to bring home, look for the following:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul>\n<li>No sign of pests or disease (Figure 1).<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Plant is sturdy, shapely, and vigorous (Figure 2).<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Soil surface free of moss and fungus (Figure 3).<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Roots not on soil surface or growing out of drainage holes (Figure 4).<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n<div class=\"wsu-row wsu-row--halves\" >\r\n    \n<div class=\"wsu-column wsu-spacing-padding-right--xsmall\"  style=\"\">\r\n\t\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" width=\"600\" height=\"400\" src=\"https:\/\/wpcdn.web.wsu.edu\/extension\/uploads\/sites\/62\/2025\/10\/Fig_01-7.jpg\" alt=\"Tiny spider mites suspended on webbing on plant.\" class=\"wp-image-2937\" srcset=\"https:\/\/wpcdn.web.wsu.edu\/extension\/uploads\/sites\/62\/2025\/10\/Fig_01-7.jpg 600w, https:\/\/wpcdn.web.wsu.edu\/extension\/uploads\/sites\/62\/2025\/10\/Fig_01-7-300x200.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Figure 1. Do not bring home a plant, like this one, with signs of infestation. Check the undersides of foliage and where the leaves meet the stem. Some pests are small and difficult to see, so be on the lookout for signs and symptoms of an infestation, such as distorted leaves, shiny coating, sticky coating, or webbing. Pictured here is an infestation of tiny spider mites. Photo credit: Clemson University\u2014USDA Cooperative Extension Slide Series, Bugwood.org.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n<\/div>\r\n\n\n<div class=\"wsu-column wsu-spacing-padding-left--xsmall\"  style=\"\">\r\n\t\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full is-resized\"><img decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" src=\"https:\/\/wpcdn.web.wsu.edu\/extension\/uploads\/sites\/62\/2025\/10\/Fig_02-3.jpg\" alt=\"Rows and rows of different types of plants; some are on long tables, while others are arranged neatly at floor level.\" class=\"wp-image-2938\" width=\"512\" height=\"512\" srcset=\"https:\/\/wpcdn.web.wsu.edu\/extension\/uploads\/sites\/62\/2025\/10\/Fig_02-3.jpg 600w, https:\/\/wpcdn.web.wsu.edu\/extension\/uploads\/sites\/62\/2025\/10\/Fig_02-3-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/wpcdn.web.wsu.edu\/extension\/uploads\/sites\/62\/2025\/10\/Fig_02-3-150x150.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 512px) 100vw, 512px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Figure 2. Choose plants with healthy foliage. Plants that have new flowers, stems, leaves, and good form along with young growth are usually of superior quality. Avoid plants that have yellow or chlorotic leaves, brown leaf margins, wilted or water-soaked foliage, spots or blotches, or spindly growth. In addition, avoid plants with obvious mechanical damage to leaves, stems, and other plant parts. Photo credit: Noelle Hart\/WSU.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n<\/div>\r\n\n<\/div>\n\n<div class=\"wsu-card-wrapper wsu-card-wrapper--per-row-2\" >\r\n    \n<article class=\"wsu-card\">\r\n\t\t<div class=\"wsu-image-frame wsu-image--ratio-6-4\">\r\n\t\t\t\t\t<img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/wpcdn.web.wsu.edu\/extension\/uploads\/sites\/62\/2025\/11\/Fig_03-scaled.jpg\"\r\n\t\t\t\tsrcset=\"https:\/\/wpcdn.web.wsu.edu\/extension\/uploads\/sites\/62\/2025\/11\/Fig_03-scaled.jpg 2560w, https:\/\/wpcdn.web.wsu.edu\/extension\/uploads\/sites\/62\/2025\/11\/Fig_03-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/wpcdn.web.wsu.edu\/extension\/uploads\/sites\/62\/2025\/11\/Fig_03-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/wpcdn.web.wsu.edu\/extension\/uploads\/sites\/62\/2025\/11\/Fig_03-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/wpcdn.web.wsu.edu\/extension\/uploads\/sites\/62\/2025\/11\/Fig_03-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/wpcdn.web.wsu.edu\/extension\/uploads\/sites\/62\/2025\/11\/Fig_03-2048x1536.jpg 2048w\"\r\n\t\t\t\tsizes=\"(max-width: 2560px) 100vw, 2560px\"\r\n\t\t\t\talt=\"Close-up of clean potting soil surface of a potted plant.\"\r\n\t\t\t\tstyle=\"object-position: 50% 50%\"\r\n\t\t\t\/>\r\n\t\t\t<\/div>\r\n\t\t<div class=\"wsu-card__content\">\r\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"wsu-caption\">\r\n\t\t\t\tFigure 3. Check the soil surface for signs of moss and fungus, which indicate overwatering. This soil surface does not show signs of overwatering. Photo: Noelle Hart\/WSU.\t\t\t<\/div>\r\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\r\n\t<\/article>\n\n<article class=\"wsu-card\">\r\n\t\t<div class=\"wsu-image-frame wsu-image--ratio-1-1\">\r\n\t\t\t\t\t<img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/wpcdn.web.wsu.edu\/extension\/uploads\/sites\/62\/2025\/11\/Fig_04-3.jpg\"\r\n\t\t\t\tsrcset=\"https:\/\/wpcdn.web.wsu.edu\/extension\/uploads\/sites\/62\/2025\/11\/Fig_04-3.jpg 300w, https:\/\/wpcdn.web.wsu.edu\/extension\/uploads\/sites\/62\/2025\/11\/Fig_04-3-150x150.jpg 150w\"\r\n\t\t\t\tsizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\"\r\n\t\t\t\talt=\"Bottom of a plastic plant pot held up to show roots emerging through one of the drainage holes, indicating the plant has outgrown its container.\"\r\n\t\t\t\tstyle=\"object-position: 56% 34%\"\r\n\t\t\t\/>\r\n\t\t\t<\/div>\r\n\t\t<div class=\"wsu-card__content\">\r\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"wsu-caption\">\r\n\t\t\t\tFigure 4. Check the bottom of the container to see if roots are emerging from the drainage hole(s). If you do see the roots, like the one in the upper drainage hole in this pot, this is an indication that the plant has outgrown its pot and may have root issues. Photo: Noelle Hart\/WSU.\t\t\t<\/div>\r\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\r\n\t<\/article>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><em>Transporting Houseplants<\/em><\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>When transporting plants, remember the two seasons of the year that can cause damage to the plants: the hot summer and the cold winter months.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wsu-spacing-after--xsmall\">In summer:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul>\n<li>Avoid placing plants in a car and leaving the car shut up. The temperature inside the car will rise and destroy the plant in a short period of time. Shade the plant from direct sun. The plant can be burned even though the air conditioner is on and the temperature is comfortable in the car.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wsu-spacing-after--xsmall\">In winter:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul>\n<li>Wrap plants carefully before leaving\u2014even a short run from the store to the car in very low temperatures can severely damage plants.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Place in the front seat and turn on the heater. (The trunk of most cars is too cold during winter months.)<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Avoid temperature drops below 50\u00b0F.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p>Many houseplants will survive a short time being placed into a box for transport. Secure the pot in the center of the box with a cardboard collar or tape. Insulating the plant with bubble wrap or crushed paper will help to maintain an appropriate temperature. Open the top of the box when the plant has reached the new location and let it acclimate to the air temperature before removing it from the box.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><em>Acclimatization to the New Environment<\/em><\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>For a new houseplant, your home is a different environment. This is stressful for a plant, so give your plant the best start possible. Place it in a sink for a thorough watering from the top of the soil (for proper watering, see the Top Watering and Bottom Watering sections). This will dissolve any excess salts that may have accumulated from heavy fertilizing by the grower. Do not do any major repotting until the plant has settled into your environment. Keep the plant hydrated and away from bright sun for a few days.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Quarantine a new plant away from your other plants for a few weeks to make sure it does not harbor any insects you may have missed on your first inspection. Many new plants will lose a few lower leaves during this time. This is a survival mechanism for the plant as it adjusts to its new surroundings. When a leaf yellows, you may snip off close to the stem for better appearance.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading  wsu-heading--style-marked\" id=\"ch14-environmental-factors\">Environmental Factors<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>Light, water, temperature, humidity, ventilation, fertilization, and soil are the chief factors affecting plant growth, and any one of these factors in incorrect proportions will prevent proper plant growth indoors. If your plant is struggling, it is likely due to too much or too little of one (or more) of these growth factors.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><em>Light<\/em><\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>Light is the most essential factor for houseplant growth\u2014and usually the hardest to provide adequately. The growth of plants and the length of time they remain active depend on the amount of light they receive. Light is necessary for all plants because they use this energy source for photosynthesis\u2014the process of converting light, water, and carbon dioxide into energy for plant growth. Without adequate light, carbohydrates cannot be manufactured, energy reserves will be depleted, and the plant will die.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Houseplants can be classified according to their light needs, such as high, medium, and low light requirements. Consider three aspects of light: (1) intensity, (2) duration, and (3) quality.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ol start=\"1\">\n<li>Light intensity<br>Light intensity influences the manufacture of plant food, stem length, leaf color, and flowering. A geranium grown in low light will be spindly and elongated with small, pale, green leaves. The same kind of plant grown in very bright light would tend to be shorter and stockier but have better branching and larger dark-green leaves.<br><br>Distance from the light source is also a key factor in plant growth. The closer a plant is to the light source, the greater the light intensity. Light intensity decreases rapidly as you move away from the source of light.<br><br>The direction the windows in your home face will affect the intensity of natural sunlight that plants receive.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n<ul>\n<li>Southern exposure provides the most intense light and warmest temperatures.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Eastern and western exposures receive about 60% of the intensity of a southern exposure and provide moderate warmth for plants.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Northern exposures receive 20% of the intensity of a southern exposure and provide the coolest temperatures.<br><br>Other factors which can influence the intensity of light penetrating a window are the presence of curtains or other window treatments, trees outside the window, weather, season of the year, shade from other buildings, and the cleanliness of the window.<br><br>Reflective (light-colored) surfaces inside the home or office will increase the intensity of light available to plants. Dark surfaces will decrease light intensity.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<ol start=\"2\">\n<li>Light duration <br>You can compensate for low light intensity by increasing the light duration or the length of time the plant is exposed to light. Increased hours of light enable the plant to make sufficient food for proper growth and development.<br><br>It is important to note, however, that all plants require some period of darkness to develop properly and thus should be illuminated for no more than 16 hours. Excessive light can be as harmful as not enough light. When a plant gets too much direct light, the leaves may become pale or burned, or they may turn brown and die. Therefore, during the summer months, you may need to protect plants from too much direct sunlight.<br><br>A common challenge for indoor plant growers is getting plants to rebloom. Most flowering houseplants are indifferent to day length. However, some indoor plants respond to day length by producing buds or changing color. Cooler temperatures can offset issues with day length.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n<ol start=\"3\">\n<li>Light quality <br>Sunlight contains a full spectrum of colors (wavelengths)\u2014see Chapter 1: Basic Botany. Plants primarily use blue and red light. Household light bulbs are not optimized to provide the colors of light needed for plant growth.<br><br>Supplemental lighting or \u201cgrow lights\u201d can be added when natural light is insufficient for plant growth. Common grow lights include fluorescent; high-intensity discharge (HID), also known as gas; and light-emitting diodes (LED) (Figure 5). Incandescent bulbs, which are the traditional household light bulbs, produce a great deal of heat and are not very energy efficient. LED lights are replacing fluorescent bulbs due to their energy efficiency and quality of light. NASA has pioneered research in growing plants under LED lights.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n<div class=\"wsu-callout wsu-border--color-vineyard wsu-callout--style-basic wsu-color-background--gray-5 wsu-border--add-left wsu-align-item--center wsu-spacing-after--large wsu-spacing-before--large wsu-max-width--xxmedium\" >\r\n        \n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading has-text-align-center  wsu-font-size--xxmedium\">Common plants that need specific day lengths:<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wsu-font-size--medium\"><a href=\"https:\/\/extension.umn.edu\/houseplants\/holiday-cacti\" data-type=\"URL\" data-id=\"https:\/\/extension.umn.edu\/houseplants\/holiday-cacti\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Holiday cacti (opens in new window)<\/a> (Schlumbergera truncata, S. bridgesii, S. gaertneri)<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wsu-font-size--medium\"><a href=\"https:\/\/hgic.clemson.edu\/ factsheet\/kalanchoe\/\" data-type=\"URL\" data-id=\"https:\/\/hgic.clemson.edu\/ factsheet\/kalanchoe\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Kalanchoe (opens in new window)<\/a> (Kalanchoe blossfeldiana)<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wsu-font-size--medium\"><a rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" href=\"https:\/\/extension.umn.edu\/houseplants\/poinsettia\" data-type=\"URL\" data-id=\"https:\/\/extension.umn.edu\/houseplants\/poinsettia\" target=\"_blank\"><strong>Poinsettia <\/strong>(opens in new window)<\/a> (Euphorbia pulcherrima) <\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-full is-resized\"><img decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" src=\"https:\/\/wpcdn.web.wsu.edu\/extension\/uploads\/sites\/62\/2025\/09\/Poinsettia-1x1-1.jpg\" alt=\"Red poinsettias grouped tightly together.\" class=\"wp-image-1373\" width=\"396\" height=\"396\" srcset=\"https:\/\/wpcdn.web.wsu.edu\/extension\/uploads\/sites\/62\/2025\/09\/Poinsettia-1x1-1.jpg 600w, https:\/\/wpcdn.web.wsu.edu\/extension\/uploads\/sites\/62\/2025\/09\/Poinsettia-1x1-1-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/wpcdn.web.wsu.edu\/extension\/uploads\/sites\/62\/2025\/09\/Poinsettia-1x1-1-150x150.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 396px) 100vw, 396px\" \/><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n<p><\/p>\n\n<\/div>\r\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"aligncenter size-full is-resized\"><img decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" src=\"https:\/\/wpcdn.web.wsu.edu\/extension\/uploads\/sites\/62\/2025\/10\/Fig_05-3.jpg\" alt=\"Portable LED light with three adjustable arms.\" class=\"wp-image-2945\" width=\"600\" height=\"400\" srcset=\"https:\/\/wpcdn.web.wsu.edu\/extension\/uploads\/sites\/62\/2025\/10\/Fig_05-3.jpg 600w, https:\/\/wpcdn.web.wsu.edu\/extension\/uploads\/sites\/62\/2025\/10\/Fig_05-3-300x200.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Figure 5. An efficient, low-cost, portable LED grow lamp can provide supplemental lighting for multiple houseplants. Photo: Marilyn Chaine.<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n<div class=\"wsu-callout wsu-border--color-vineyard wsu-callout--style-basic wsu-color-background--gray-5 wsu-border--add-left wsu-align-item--center wsu-spacing-after--large wsu-spacing-before--large wsu-max-width--xxmedium\" >\r\n        \n\n<p>The publication <a href=\"https:\/\/extension.missouri.edu\/publications\/g6515\" data-type=\"URL\" data-id=\"https:\/\/extension.missouri.edu\/publications\/g6515\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Lighting Indoor Houseplants (opens in new window)<\/a> from University of Missouri Extension has a good overview of growing houseplants under lights.<\/p>\n\n<\/div>\r\n\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading wsu-spacing-after--medium\">Spending the Summer Outdoors<\/h4>\n\n\n\n<p>Many houseplants thrive by spending the summer outside in the sun, air, and rain. There are a few things to keep in mind:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ol start=\"1\">\n<li>Wait until it is warm enough at night.<br>If nighttime lows are consistently above 50 degrees Fahrenheit, it is a good time to move your plants outside. Bring your plants back inside for the fall when the lows start dipping toward 50 degrees again.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n<ol start=\"2\">\n<li>Gradually change the amount of sunlight.<br>The move from inside to outside (and vice versa) is stressful for a plant. In particular, a sudden shift in the amount and intensity of sunlight can damage a plant. If the plant is shocked with too much sun, the leaves can burn. If the plant is shocked with too little light, it will not be able to efficiently photosynthesize.<br><br>Many species of plants grown in full sun have leaves (sun leaves) which are structurally different from the leaves of plants grown in shade (shade leaves). Sun leaves have fewer chloroplasts and less chlorophyll (see Chapter 1: Basic Botany); the leaves are thick and small, but large in number. Shade leaves have more chloroplasts and more chlorophyll, and are thin, large, greener, and few. Plants which can produce sun and shade leaves will use shade leaves indoors and sun leaves outdoors.<br><br>Let your plant acclimate when placing them outdoors in summer by gradually increasing light intensity. Initially place the plant in the shade outside, and move into the sun for short periods of time, slowly increasing the sun exposure. Reverse the process before bringing plants back indoors in the fall by slowly reducing the amount of sun the plant receives. This will give the plant time to adapt, either by producing new leaves or producing more (or fewer) chloroplasts.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n<ol start=\"3\">\n<li>Protect from the wind. <br>Plants grown indoors are not adapted to withstand strong wind. They will not have developed the necessary structural support. Keep the plant close to the house or in another sheltered place.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n<ol start=\"4\">\n<li>Monitor soil moisture closely. <br>With increased sunlight and wind, your plant is likely to need more water than it did inside. The plant will be photosynthesizing more and increasing evapotranspiration. On the flip side, if you experience frequent or heavy rains, your plant may receive a lot more water than it had before\u2014make sure it is draining properly to prevent root rot.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n<ol start=\"5\">\n<li>Do not bring pests inside in the fall. <br>Make sure you quarantine the plant before moving it indoors to eliminate any insects or fungus it may have met. A week of isolation from the rest of your houseplants is normally enough to discover any potential threats. Washing the plant and the pot with tepid water before bringing it indoors again also helps to control pests. Some experts recommend a chemical treatment for thorough pest prevention.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><em>Water<\/em><\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>Over- and underwatering account for a large percentage of houseplant losses. Differences in soil or potting media and environment, container, and growth requirements influence water needs. You need to monitor your houseplants and water when they need it, rather than on a schedule. Frequency of watering will depend on the size and type of plant, size and type of pot, temperature, humidity, and rate of growth.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading wsu-spacing-after--medium\">Guidelines for Effective Watering<\/h4>\n\n\n\n<p>Use room temperature water. Potting medium can take up tepid water more readily than cold water. Cold water can shock plants so they release turgor pressure. If the water is chlorinated, let it stand overnight before applying; the chlorine will evaporate.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Tap water is safe for most houseplants, but it depends on the plant and the quality of your tap water. Tap water quality varies, and some plants can be sensitive to minerals and chemicals in tap water. An example is the peace lily which is fluoride sensitive. Do not use water from a water softener unless it is equipped with a deionizing unit to remove the sodium. Hard water has a high mineral content, largely comprising calcium and magnesium carbonates, bicarbonates, and sulfites. These minerals will result in the accumulation of calcium and magnesium salts in the soil and on the sides of pots. While usually harmless, they can build up in the soil over time.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>If the plant is potted in a standard pot with drainage holes, run water through the pot until water comes out the bottom. If the ball of soil around the plant has become overly dry, the soil may shrink and pull away from the pot\u2019s edges. This will cause water to pour through gaps at the pot\u2019s edges without moistening the plant\u2019s roots. If this happens, immerse the plant in its pot in a pail of water. Make sure there is an inch or two of water over the top of the soil. Leave it immersed until air bubbles stop rising, then set the plant aside so the excess water will drain.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading wsu-spacing-after--medium\">Top Watering<\/h4>\n\n\n\n<p>Top watering is a quick, common way to water houseplants. Before top watering, feel the soil by sticking a finger into the top layer of soil. As a general rule, if the soil feels dry, it is time to water. Saturate the soil ball until water comes out the drainage holes. Feel the weight of the pot. Let the weight guide you as to when the soil is saturated. Remember, plant roots do need air, so do not fully saturate the soil.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading wsu-spacing-after--medium\">Bottom Watering<\/h4>\n\n\n\n<p>Bottom watering simply means watering the pot from the bottom. The potting mix soaks up moisture through the drainage holes in the bottom of the pot. This method provides water to the roots while keeping the foliage dry and reduces the potential for leaf spot diseases. The surface of the potting mix also stays on the dry side, discouraging fungus gnats, algae, and mold. The drawback is that it takes time and space. You need a container that will hold the pot and allow you to add several inches of tepid water. Leave the plant sitting in the water until the top of the soil feels damp. This may take several days, and you may have to add additional water to the container.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wsu-spacing-after--xsmall\"><em>Capillary mats<\/em>: Using capillary mats to bottom water plants is a good option when you are unable to water your plants for a period of time, such as during a vacation. Capillary mats can be purchased, or you can use an acrylic blanket or fleece. Natural materials are not recommended as they break down rapidly.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul>\n<li>Cut the capillary mat material to fit a tray, flat, or saucer.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Set pots directly on capillary mat. Make sure the drainage holes in the pot provide contact between the potting mix and the mat.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Saturate the capillary mat. The capillary action carries moisture from the mat to the plant roots via the potting mix. The mat will absorb extra water and make it available to the plants over the next several days.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Alternatively, drape the capillary mat into a container of water. It will act as a wick and keep the mat wet.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Wash the mats frequently to keep them clean and help them last longer.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"alignright size-full\"><img decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" width=\"400\" height=\"600\" src=\"https:\/\/wpcdn.web.wsu.edu\/extension\/uploads\/sites\/62\/2025\/10\/Fig_06-3.jpg\" alt=\"African violet in a pot on top of a half-pint canning jar that is filled with water.\" class=\"wp-image-2947\" srcset=\"https:\/\/wpcdn.web.wsu.edu\/extension\/uploads\/sites\/62\/2025\/10\/Fig_06-3.jpg 400w, https:\/\/wpcdn.web.wsu.edu\/extension\/uploads\/sites\/62\/2025\/10\/Fig_06-3-200x300.jpg 200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Figure 6. A wicked African violet using a half-pint canning jar with hole drilled in plastic lid. Wicking is cotton yarn. Photo: Toni Gwin\/WSU.<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n<p class=\"wsu-spacing-after--xsmall\"><em>Wicking<\/em>: This method works well for small plants. It uses acrylic fibers such as two-ply worsted acrylic yarn to draw water up into the potting mix from a reservoir (Figure 6).<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul>\n<li>Create a water reservoir using a plastic or glass container with a lid. Cut a small hole in the lid.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Use a pencil to poke a path from the top of the soil, down the soil in the pot, and out a drainage hole.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Push the wick through the hole and out the drainage hole. Close the soil around the wick ensuring it has good soil contact. Bury the top of the wick just under the soil surface.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Drop the wick through the hole in the lid of the water reservoir and into the water reservoir.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li class=\"wsu-spacing-after--default\">Refill the reservoir before the water level is below the wick.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p>Using capillary mats or wicked pots lets you spend less time watering. One mat system often will accommodate multiple plants. Community watering does carry more risk of spreading pests and diseases between plants, so there is a trade-off. You may see green algae growing in your reservoir trays or on your capillary mats. Algae is normally harmless, but if you do not like the way it looks you can add an algae control product to the water.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading wsu-spacing-after--medium\">Self-Watering Pots<\/h4>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wsu-spacing-after--default\">Self-watering pots are two-piece planters: one space for the plant and the second for a reservoir of water. A ceramic style is often sold as \u201cAfrican violet pots.\u201d The unglazed inner pot absorbs moisture from the reservoir of water in the outer pot. There are many forms of plastic self-watering pots as well (Figure 7). Self-watering containers require a light soil mixture (at least half perlite) to keep the&nbsp;roots from remaining too wet and potentially rotting. It is also advised to fill the reservoir so just the bottom quarter inch or so of the inner pot gets wet. This will help keep it from getting waterlogged.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image alignright size-full is-resized\"><img decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" src=\"https:\/\/wpcdn.web.wsu.edu\/extension\/uploads\/sites\/62\/2025\/10\/Fig_07ab.jpg\" alt=\"A plastic self-watering plant pot.\nReservoir of self-watering plant pot.\" class=\"wp-image-2948\" width=\"576\" height=\"450\" srcset=\"https:\/\/wpcdn.web.wsu.edu\/extension\/uploads\/sites\/62\/2025\/10\/Fig_07ab.jpg 768w, https:\/\/wpcdn.web.wsu.edu\/extension\/uploads\/sites\/62\/2025\/10\/Fig_07ab-300x234.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 576px) 100vw, 576px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Figure 7. A plastic self-watering pot with a reservoir for water on the bottom. Photo: Noelle Hart\/WSU.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Research and experiment with different watering styles and techniques until you find one that suits you, your plants, and your lifestyle.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><em>Temperature<\/em><\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>Houseplants tolerate normal temperature fluctuations. In general, foliage houseplants grow best between 70\u00b0F and 80\u00b0F during the day and between 60\u00b0F and 68\u00b0F at night. Most flowering houseplants prefer the same daytime range but grow best at nighttime temperatures between 55\u00b0F and 60\u00b0F. The lower nighttime temperatures help plants recover from moisture loss, intensify flower color, and prolong flower life. Excessively low or high temperatures may cause plant failures, stop growth, or cause spindly appearance and foliage damage or drop.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><em>Humidity<\/em><\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wsu-spacing-after--xsmall\">Most plants do well in relative humidity ranging from 70% to 80%. Unfortunately, the humidity level in the average home is often below 60% and drops even lower in the winter when central heating is used. Four ways to increase humidity include:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul>\n<li>Attaching a humidifier to the heating or ventilating system in the home.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Placing gravel trays (in which an even moisture level is maintained) under the flower pots or containers. Wet gravel trays will increase the relative humidity near the containers. As the moisture around the pebbles evaporates, the relative humidity is raised.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Watering with capillary matting. Like the gravel trays, they increase humidity in similar ways.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Grouping plants close together. Plants give off water vapor during transpiration, naturally increasing the humidity in the air around them.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p>Spraying a fine mist on the foliage or pot is not recommended. This method is of doubtful effectiveness for total humidity modification and can increase the risk of disease.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><em>Ventilation<\/em><\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>Houseplants, especially flowering varieties, are very sensitive to drafts or heat from registers. Forced air dries the plants rapidly, overtaxes their limited root systems, and may cause damage or plant loss. Houseplants are sensitive to natural or blended gas. Some plants refuse to flower, while others drop flower buds and foliage when exposed to gases. Blended gases are more toxic to houseplants than natural gases.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><em>Fertilization<\/em><\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>Houseplants, like most other plants, need fertilizers containing three major plant food elements: nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K). They are available in many different combinations and under a multitude of brand names. Each brand should be analyzed on the label, indicating specifically how much water-soluble, elemental nitrogen, phosphate, or potash (in that order) is available in every pound of the product. Most of these fertilizers are about 20\u201320\u201320. Commercial fertilizers used for houseplants are sold in granular, crystalline, liquid, or tablet forms. You may dilute fertilizers, but do not exceed the recommended amounts listed on the package label instructions.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Which is the best houseplant fertilizer for you to use? This will depend on the types of plants being grown, <a href=\"https:\/\/extension.wsu.edu\/pnw-gardeners-handbook\/glossary\/#c\" data-type=\"URL\" data-id=\"https:\/\/extension.wsu.edu\/pnw-gardeners-handbook\/glossary\/#c\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\"><strong>cultural conditions<\/strong> (opens in new window)<\/a>, and your schedule. In general, foliage houseplants require fertilizers high in nitrogen while flowering plants respond best to fertilizer with higher phosphate analysis. There are plenty of specialty houseplant fertilizers out there, both organic and synthetic. Read their labels for differences in the amounts or proportions of nutrients supplied.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Organic fertilizers take time to become available to plants. The nutrients in organic fertilizers are bound up in carbon, and so after being applied&nbsp;they slowly convert to usable nutrients the plant can take up through its roots. Synthetic fertilizers are readily available to plants after being watered in, but they are more likely to burn plant roots if applied incorrectly.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Fertilizer spikes and tablets are inserted into the soil, releasing nutrients laterally when the plant is watered. Unlike liquid fertilizers or granular fertilizers spread over the surface of the soil, nutrients from spikes and tablets often do not distribute evenly through the soil and may not reach all the roots, or the roots may grow toward the fertilizer, unbalancing the container.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Frequency of fertilizer application varies somewhat with the vigor of growth and age of each plant. Generally, fertilizer is recommended more regularly from March to September when active growth occurs. During the winter months, little or no fertilizer needs to be added because reduced light and decreased temperatures results in reduced growth. Fertilizing at this time could be detrimental to some houseplants.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>When applying fertilizer in a solution, make sure that some runs out of the bottom of the pot. This prevents root burn and the buildup of soluble salts or excess fertilizer and reduces the chance of killing the plant. Do not apply fertilizer to a wilted plant. Water the plant first and let it revive before fertilizing.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><em>Soluble Salts<\/em><\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>Reduced growth, brown leaf tips, dropping of lower leaves, small new growth, dead root tips, and wilting are all signs of soluble salts buildup. Soluble salts are the minerals dissolved in water. These salts will accumulate on top of the soil, forming a yellow to white crust. A ring of salt deposits may be formed around the pot at the soil line or around the drainage hole. Salts will also build up on the outside of porous clay pots. When water evaporates from the soil, the minerals or salts stay behind. As the salts in the soil become more and more concentrated, plants find it harder and harder to take up water. If salts build up to an extremely high level, water can be drawn out of the root tips, causing them to die.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>High soluble salts damage the roots directly, and because the plant is weakened, it is more susceptible to attack from insects and diseases. One of the most common problems associated with high salt levels is root rot.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The best way to prevent soluble salt injury is to stop the salts from building up. Water correctly. When you water, allow some water to drain through and then empty the drip plate. Water equal to one-tenth the volume of the pot should drain through each time you water.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wsu-spacing-after--large\">Plants should be flushed (or leached) every four to six months. Even plants you may be watering by wicking, capillary, or bottom action need to be flushed. Try to flush a plant before you fertilize so that you do not wash away all the fertilizer you just added. The easy way to do this is to keep the water running through the soil to wash out the salts. Water your plant with a good amount of water. You want to see water running out the drain holes for a short time. Stop watering from the top and let the plant drain.<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wsu-callout wsu-border--color-vineyard wsu-callout--style-basic wsu-color-background--gray-5 wsu-border--add-left wsu-align-item--center wsu-spacing-after--large wsu-spacing-before--large wsu-max-width--xxmedium\" >\r\n        \n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading has-text-align-center  wsu-font-size--xxmedium\">Unsure how much water to use for flushing?<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"has-text-align-center  wsu-max-width--xxmedium\">The amount of water used for flushing should equal twice the volume of the pot. A six-inch pot will hold 10 cups of water, so 20 cups of water are used to leach a plant in a six-inch pot.<\/p>\n\n<\/div>\r\n\n\n\n<p>If a layer of salts has formed a crust on top of the soil, you should remove the salt crust before you begin to leach. Do not remove more than one-quarter inch of soil. Do not add more soil to the top of the pot to hide the accumulated salts. It will not be helpful. If the soluble salt level is extremely high or the pot has no drainage, repot the plant.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The level of salts that will cause injury varies with the type of plant and how it is being grown. A plant grown in the home may be injured by salts at concentrations of 200 ppm. The same plant growing in a greenhouse where the light and drainage are good will grow with salts at ten times that level, or 2,000 ppm. Some nurseries and plant shops leach or flush plants to remove excess salts before the plant is sold. If you are not sure that has been done, flush a newly purchased plant the first time you water it.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading  wsu-heading--style-marked\" id=\"ch14-planting-media\">Planting Media<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>Choose a potting mix or potting soil especially created for indoor potted plants. These could include a composted soil or peat mixture with or without fertilizers to supply nutrients. A peat-based potting mix will weigh less than a soil-based mix; however, it is more difficult to wet if it dries out. Wet the potting mix prior to repotting houseplants to ensure that the potting mix will absorb water evenly. You may also create your own.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Note the quality of the plant reflects the quality of the soil or planting medium. It should be porous for root aeration and drainage but also capable of water and nutrient retention. Most commercially prepared mixes are termed \u201cartificial,\u201d which means they contain no soil. High quality artificial mixes generally contain slow-release fertilizers which take care of a plant\u2019s nutritional requirements for several months. Garden soil is not appropriate for indoor plants. Many garden soils contains a high volume of clay which will reduce drainage. Garden soil also can contain pathogens and insects, resulting in houseplant health issues and insects in your home.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><em>Preparing Artificial Mixes<\/em><\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>Soilless or artificial potting mixtures can be prepared with minimal difficulty. Most mixes contain a combination of organic matter, such as peat moss, coir, ground pine bark, or sterilized loam, and an inorganic material, such as washed sand, vermiculite, or perlite. Materials commonly used for houseplants are peat-lite mixtures, consisting of peat or coir and either vermiculite or perlite. Artificial mixtures are usually very low in trace or minor elements; therefore, it is important to use a fertilizer that contains these trace elements.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The following are some details on the ingredients for these mixes.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading wsu-spacing-after--medium\">Peat Moss or Coir<\/h4>\n\n\n\n<p>Readily available baled or bagged sphagnum <a href=\"https:\/\/extension.wsu.edu\/pnw-gardeners-handbook\/glossary\/#p\" data-type=\"URL\" data-id=\"https:\/\/extension.wsu.edu\/pnw-gardeners-handbook\/glossary\/#p\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\"><strong>peat moss<\/strong> (opens in new window)<\/a> adds structural and water drainage characteristics to potting mix. Most sphagnum peat moss is acidic, with a pH from 4.0 to 5.0. It usually has a very low fertility level. Do not shred sphagnum peat moss too finely.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Coir, or coconut fiber, is a good substitute for peat moss. Unlike peat, coir is a renewable resource and helps solve a waste disposal problem in coconut growing regions. When coconuts are harvested and husked, the long fibers are removed and used for such things as upholstery stuffing, rope, doormats, and brushes. The short fibers are left over and have found use in horticulture as coir.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading wsu-spacing-after--medium\">Vermiculite<\/h4>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wsu-spacing-after--default\">This is a sterile, lightweight mica product. When mica is heated to approximately 1,800\u00b0F, it expands its platelike structure. Vermiculite will hold large quantities of air, water, and nutrients needed for plant growth. Its pH is usually in the 6.5 to 7.2 range. Vermiculite is available in four particle sizes. For horticultural mixes, sizes 2 or 3 are generally used. If possible, the larger-sized particles should be used since they give much better soil aeration. Vermiculite is available under a variety of trade names.<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wsu-callout wsu-border--color-vineyard wsu-callout--style-basic wsu-color-background--gray-5 wsu-border--add-left wsu-align-item--center wsu-spacing-after--large wsu-spacing-before--large wsu-max-width--xxmedium\" >\r\n        \n\n<p class=\"has-text-align-center\">When purchasing <a rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" href=\"https:\/\/www.epa.gov\/asbestos\/i-useused-vermiculite-enhance-my-potting-soil-should-i-be-concerned\" data-type=\"URL\" data-id=\"https:\/\/www.epa.gov\/asbestos\/i-useused-vermiculite-enhance-my-potting-soil-should-i-be-concerned\" target=\"_blank\"><strong>vermiculite<\/strong> (opens in new window)<\/a>, look for preparations that do not contain asbestos. In the past there have been health concerns associated with vermiculite, as at one time it was used in asbestos. Current horticultural vermiculite is no longer a health risk.<\/p>\n\n<\/div>\r\n\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading wsu-spacing-after--medium\">Perlite<\/h4>\n\n\n\n<p>Perlite is a sterile material produced by heating volcanic rock to approximately 1,800\u00b0F, resulting in a very lightweight, porous material that is white in color. Its principal value in soil mixtures is aeration. It does not hold water and nutrients as well as vermiculite. The pH is usually between 7.0 and 7.5. Perlite can cause fluoride burn on some foliage plants. Fluoride damage is usually seen on the tips of the leaves. The burn progresses from the tip up into the leaf. Fluoride burns can be prevented by adding 1\u00bd times the recommended amount of lime when mixing the soil.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wsu-spacing-after--xsmall\">Here is a recipe for a good artificial mix containing no outside garden soil or fertilizer:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul>\n<li>2\u00bc quarts peat moss or coir<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>1\u00bc quarts vermiculite<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>1\u00bc quarts perlite<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>2\u00bd tablespoons limestone<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>1\u00bc teaspoons superphosphate<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading  wsu-heading--style-marked\" id=\"ch14-containers\">Containers<\/h2>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"alignright size-full is-resized\"><img decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" src=\"https:\/\/wpcdn.web.wsu.edu\/extension\/uploads\/sites\/62\/2025\/10\/Fig_08-1.jpg\" alt=\"Rows and rows of various plant pots arranged on shelves.\" class=\"wp-image-2950\" width=\"300\" height=\"450\" srcset=\"https:\/\/wpcdn.web.wsu.edu\/extension\/uploads\/sites\/62\/2025\/10\/Fig_08-1.jpg 400w, https:\/\/wpcdn.web.wsu.edu\/extension\/uploads\/sites\/62\/2025\/10\/Fig_08-1-200x300.jpg 200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Figure 8. Containers may be fabricated of ceramic, plastic, fiberglass, wood, aluminum, copper, brass, and many other materials. Pictured here is a selection from a home improvement store. Photo: Noelle Hart\/WSU.<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n<p>Types of containers are endless (Figure 8). Usually containers are made of ceramic, clay, plastic, or fiberglass. The two most common types are discussed in more detail in following sections.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wsu-spacing-after--xsmall\">Regardless of which material you choose, keep these qualities in mind when selecting a container:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ol>\n<li>Large enough to provide room for soil, roots, and watering (need space between the soil and the top of the pot\u2014see Repotting section).<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Bottom drainage hole(s). (Or, if choosing a decorative container that does not have drainage, use it as an outer layer for a plain pot that does have drainage. Then remove the plain inner pot to water\u2014over the sink or over the decorative container, then pour out the excess water\u2014to prevent the plant sitting in water.)<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li class=\"wsu-spacing-after--default\">Attractive without competing with the beauty of the plant it holds.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><em>Clay and Ceramic Containers<\/em><\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>Unglazed and glazed porous clay pots with drainage holes are sometimes still used by commercial houseplant growers and frequently come with the plant when it is purchased. Clay pots absorb and lose moisture through their walls. Frequently, the greatest accumulation of roots is next to the walls of the clay pot, because moisture and nutrients accumulate in the clay pores. Although easily broken, clay pots provide excellent aeration for plant roots and are considered by some to be the healthiest type of container for a plant.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Ceramic pots are usually glazed on the outside and sometimes also on the inside. They are frequently designed without drainage holes. This necessitates careful watering practices. Containers with no drainage are not good flower pots. Small novelty containers have little room for soil and roots and are largely ornamental. They should be avoided for long-term growth.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>It is not recommended to leave clay and ceramic containers out over winter, as they can freeze and crack.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><em>Plastic and Fiberglass<\/em><\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>Plastic and fiberglass containers are usually quite light and easy to handle. They have become the standard because they are relatively inexpensive and quite attractive in shape and color. Plastic pots are easy to sterilize or clean for reuse. Because they are not porous like clay pots, they need less frequent watering and tend to accumulate fewer salts. However, as they are light, they can be prone to falling over.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><em>Terrariums<\/em><\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>Moisture-loving plants such as ferns do better if grown in an enclosed glass container. Choose plants that are relatively small even when full-grown. Any container used for a terrarium must be scrupulously cleaned. Use a commercial potting soil that has been sterilized to introduce fewer harmful bacteria, insects, or fungi. The wider the mouth of the terrarium, the easier it is to plant.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Start by adding adequate drainage to the terrarium. This can be several inches of coarse gravel or pebbles topped with a thin layer of coir. The coir will help keep the soil mix from shifting down. Do not add any additional fertilizer to the soil mix. The enclosed container will normally provide enough nutrients to last. Once the terrarium is planted, give it a light watering. Aim the water at the sides of the terrarium to remove planting mix from the walls. Allow the foliage to dry before putting on the lid. If the glass walls become heavily coated with moisture, take the lid off for a few hours. You want only a fine mist on the glass. When you have stabilized the environment, it will act as a closed system. Thus the care you will need to give is minimum. Do not place the terrarium in direct sunlight. The transparent container traps solar heat, and the temperature will increase high enough to kill your plants.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading  wsu-heading--style-marked\" id=\"ch14-repotting\">Repotting<\/h2>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"alignright size-full is-resized\"><img decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" src=\"https:\/\/wpcdn.web.wsu.edu\/extension\/uploads\/sites\/62\/2025\/10\/AdobeStock_502537111-1.jpeg\" alt=\"Hand holding a root bound pot ready for repotting.\" class=\"wp-image-2953\" width=\"450\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/wpcdn.web.wsu.edu\/extension\/uploads\/sites\/62\/2025\/10\/AdobeStock_502537111-1.jpeg 600w, https:\/\/wpcdn.web.wsu.edu\/extension\/uploads\/sites\/62\/2025\/10\/AdobeStock_502537111-1-300x200.jpeg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 450px) 100vw, 450px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Figure 9. Root-bound plants run out of space for their roots, as evidenced by the emergence of roots from the drainage hole. Image credit: Adobe Stock.<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n<p class=\"wsu-spacing-after--default\">Actively growing houseplants require occasional repotting. This occurs very rarely with slower growing plants, more frequently with others. Plants no longer stable in their pots may need repotting to keep them upright. All plants require repotting when their roots have filled the pot and are growing out the bottom (Figure 9). If your plant wilts between normal watering, the plant may need more room for the roots. Generally, a young, actively growing plant needs repotting more often than a mature, established plant.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wsu-spacing-after--large\">Most plants can be removed from a pot if the lip of the container is knocked upside down against any solid object (Figure 10). Do not pull a plant out of a container by its stem. Hold your hand over the soil, straddling the plant with your fore and middle finger while gently removing the plant out of its container. If the plant has become root-bound it will be necessary to cut and unwind any roots that encircle the plant, otherwise the roots will never develop (Figure 11). If the old soil surface has accumulated salts, the top inch should be removed.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" width=\"900\" height=\"450\" src=\"https:\/\/wpcdn.web.wsu.edu\/extension\/uploads\/sites\/62\/2026\/03\/Fig_10-1.jpg\" alt=\"Macro shot view of woman gardener transplanting indoor plant into a ceramic pot.\" class=\"wp-image-4537\" srcset=\"https:\/\/wpcdn.web.wsu.edu\/extension\/uploads\/sites\/62\/2026\/03\/Fig_10-1.jpg 900w, https:\/\/wpcdn.web.wsu.edu\/extension\/uploads\/sites\/62\/2026\/03\/Fig_10-1-300x150.jpg 300w, https:\/\/wpcdn.web.wsu.edu\/extension\/uploads\/sites\/62\/2026\/03\/Fig_10-1-768x384.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 900px) 100vw, 900px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Figure 10. How to extract a plant for repotting. Photo credit Adobe Stock.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full wsu-spacing-after--large\"><img decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" width=\"900\" height=\"300\" src=\"https:\/\/wpcdn.web.wsu.edu\/extension\/uploads\/sites\/62\/2026\/03\/Fig_11.jpg\" alt=\"Macro shot view of woman gardener holding indoor flower before placing in a new pot.\" class=\"wp-image-4538\" srcset=\"https:\/\/wpcdn.web.wsu.edu\/extension\/uploads\/sites\/62\/2026\/03\/Fig_11.jpg 900w, https:\/\/wpcdn.web.wsu.edu\/extension\/uploads\/sites\/62\/2026\/03\/Fig_11-300x100.jpg 300w, https:\/\/wpcdn.web.wsu.edu\/extension\/uploads\/sites\/62\/2026\/03\/Fig_11-768x256.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 900px) 100vw, 900px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Figure 11. Unwind roots that have encircled the plant, place media in the bottom of the pot until the plant rests just below the top of the new pot, and fill around with soil. Photo credit: Adobe Stock<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wsu-spacing-before--default\">Potting media should be coarse enough to allow good drainage yet have sufficient water retention capabilities. Moisten potting media. Add enough media to the bottom of the new container so the plant roots sit just below the top edge of the pot.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>When repotting becomes necessary, it should be done without delay. The pot selected for repotting should be approximately two inches larger in diameter than the pot the plant is currently growing in. It should have at least one drainage hole and must be clean. Wash soluble salts from used clay pots with water and a scrub brush, and clean pots in a solution of one part liquid bleach to nine parts water.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Test this by setting the plant in the new pot and adding media as necessary. Once the plant is at the right height, add soil around the sides between the root ball and pot. Do not add soil above the original level on the root ball, unless the roots are exposed. Gently press the media into place with your fingers and tap the pot against a tabletop to settle the media.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wsu-spacing-after--default\">Water your newly repotted plant. Watering settles the media, filling in gaps around roots. After watering and settling, the media level should be sufficiently below the level of the pot to leave headroom. Headroom is the amount of space between the soil level and the top of the pot that allows for watering a plant. A properly potted plant has enough headroom to allow water to wash through the soil to thoroughly moisten it and saturate the root ball.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>If you are repotting a cactus or other plant with thorns or spines, wear leather gloves when removing the cactus from its pot. Hold it in the new pot with a loop of folded newspaper (Figure 12).<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wsu-row wsu-row--sidebar-right\" >\r\n    \n<div class=\"wsu-column\"  style=\"\">\r\n\t\n<div class=\"wp-block-image wsu-spacing-after--xlarge\">\n<figure class=\"alignleft size-full is-resized\"><img decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" src=\"https:\/\/wpcdn.web.wsu.edu\/extension\/uploads\/sites\/62\/2025\/10\/Fig_12-2.jpg\" alt=\"A gloved hand grips newspaper which has been folded, then wrapped around the base of a cactus to raise the plant out of its pot.\" class=\"wp-image-2963\" width=\"651\" height=\"651\" srcset=\"https:\/\/wpcdn.web.wsu.edu\/extension\/uploads\/sites\/62\/2025\/10\/Fig_12-2.jpg 400w, https:\/\/wpcdn.web.wsu.edu\/extension\/uploads\/sites\/62\/2025\/10\/Fig_12-2-300x300.jpg 300w, https:\/\/wpcdn.web.wsu.edu\/extension\/uploads\/sites\/62\/2025\/10\/Fig_12-2-150x150.jpg 150w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 651px) 100vw, 651px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Figure 12. To repot a cactus, wear leather gloves and use a strip of folded newspaper to gently grip the barrel of the cactus. To make the loop, take several sheets of newspaper and fold them into a two-inch-wide strip. Wrap the barrel of the cactus in the strip and tightly pinch the strip together to close the loop around the plant. You may wish to clip the ends together to give you a safe place to hold the cactus. Photo: Noelle Hart\/WSU.<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n<\/div>\r\n\n\n<div class=\"wsu-column  wsu-border--add-left wsu-color-background--gray-5 wsu-border--color-vineyard\"  style=\"\">\r\n\t\n\n<p class=\" wsu-font-size--medium\">You may have been taught to add drainage materials to the bottom of your houseplant\u2019s pot, but this may increase the potential for overwatering. Soil scientists know water does not move easily from layers of finer-textured material to layers of coarser-textured. Rather than water freely trickling down across the soil and drainage layers, water resists crossing it. That is because the pull of the water upward in the finer layer offsets any gravitational pull downward. Instead, water builds up in the finer level above and is only released into the coarser layer below when it is saturated. This buildup of water adversely saturates the root zone of the plant, compounding the tendency of many a houseplant owner to overwater. Plant roots suffer from lack of oxygen, and the overwatered plant declines.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wsu-font-size--medium wsu-spacing-after--small\">Soil has a finer texture than gravel and acts like a sponge, holding onto water. After watering, water will gather at the bottom of the soil. Adding gravel to the bottom of the pot pushes the area of wet soil into the root zone, increasing the potential for overwatering.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image size-full\"><img decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" width=\"600\" height=\"338\" src=\"https:\/\/wpcdn.web.wsu.edu\/extension\/uploads\/sites\/62\/2026\/04\/image.png\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-4818\" srcset=\"https:\/\/wpcdn.web.wsu.edu\/extension\/uploads\/sites\/62\/2026\/04\/image.png 600w, https:\/\/wpcdn.web.wsu.edu\/extension\/uploads\/sites\/62\/2026\/04\/image-300x169.png 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 600px) 100vw, 600px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Figure credit: Noelle Hart\/WSU.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n<\/div>\r\n\n<\/div>\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading  wsu-heading--style-marked\" id=\"ch14-training-grooming-sanitation\">Training, Grooming, and Sanitation<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><em>Training Plants<\/em><\/h3>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"alignright size-full is-resized\"><img decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" src=\"https:\/\/wpcdn.web.wsu.edu\/extension\/uploads\/sites\/62\/2025\/10\/Fig_13-1.jpg\" alt=\"Orchids in pots, wrapped in plastic, and supported by vertical stakes.\" class=\"wp-image-2974\" width=\"300\" height=\"450\" srcset=\"https:\/\/wpcdn.web.wsu.edu\/extension\/uploads\/sites\/62\/2025\/10\/Fig_13-1.jpg 400w, https:\/\/wpcdn.web.wsu.edu\/extension\/uploads\/sites\/62\/2025\/10\/Fig_13-1-200x300.jpg 200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Figure 13. These orchids are supported by vertical stakes. Photo: Noelle Hart\/WSU.<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n<p>Plants that benefit from some type of support, and which may benefit from some training, fall into three categories. First, plants with flowers that look best when displayed upright, such as orchids (Figure 13). Insert a stake in the soil near the plant base and secure with a soft, stretchable material. Thin strips of T-shirt, garden tape, or worsted yarn are appropriate choices.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The second category of plants are the ramblers, trailers, and climbers, although many of these plants do not necessarily need support. They can be trained to grow along a stake or trellis or lace curtain or abandoned stuffed toy. Plants in this group include arrowhead vine, hoya, and pothos.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wsu-spacing-after--default\">The third group of plants have aerial roots and grow best when allowed to fasten and climb onto a continuously moist, moss-covered pole. Two common plant types that fall into this category include the Swiss-cheese plant and various philodendrons.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong><em>Grooming Plants<\/em><\/strong>: Houseplants may become unwieldy or unbalanced. If they do, it is time for some grooming with pinching and <a href=\"https:\/\/extension.wsu.edu\/pnw-gardeners-handbook\/glossary\/#p\" data-type=\"URL\" data-id=\"https:\/\/extension.wsu.edu\/pnw-gardeners-handbook\/glossary\/#p\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\"><strong>pruning<\/strong> (opens in new window)<\/a>. Pinching and pruning&nbsp;make your indoor garden more attractive and can correct structural problems while encouraging new growth. The key to pruning houseplants is to do so before they become too leggy or unbalanced.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/extension.wsu.edu\/pnw-gardeners-handbook\/glossary\/#p\" data-type=\"URL\" data-id=\"https:\/\/extension.wsu.edu\/pnw-gardeners-handbook\/glossary\/#p\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\"><strong><em>Pinching back<\/em><\/strong> (opens in new window)<\/a>: is the removal of one inch or less of new stem and leaf growth (Figure 14). When necessary, pinch to just above the node. This leaves the plant attractive and stimulates new growth. It can be a one-time or continuous activity, depending on the need of the plant and the desires of the plant owner. If a plant should be kept compact, but well filled out, frequent pinching will achieve this. Pruning is a similar activity.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong><em>Pruning<\/em><\/strong>: includes removal of other than terminal shoot tips. Sometimes an entire branch or section of a plant should be removed for the sake of appearance. When pruning, cut back just above a node or remove the branch to where it originates.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Disbudding is another related care activity. Certain flower buds are removed either to obtain larger blooms from a few choice buds or to eliminate flowering of a very young plant or recently rooted cutting that should not bear the physical drain of flowering early.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p><strong><em>Sanitation<\/em><\/strong>: It is important to keep plants clean and neat. It not only improves the appearance of plants but reduces the incidence of insects and disease problems. Remove all spent flowers, leaves, and dead stems and branches. Keep leaves dust free by washing plants with warm water. Avoid using leaf shine products; they clog stomata, can promote rot, and interfere with gas exchange.<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"alignright size-full is-resized\"><img decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" src=\"https:\/\/wpcdn.web.wsu.edu\/extension\/uploads\/sites\/62\/2025\/10\/jade-plant-pinching-3.jpg\" alt=\"Someone pinches a jade leaf at its base.\" class=\"wp-image-2976\" width=\"300\" height=\"450\" srcset=\"https:\/\/wpcdn.web.wsu.edu\/extension\/uploads\/sites\/62\/2025\/10\/jade-plant-pinching-3.jpg 400w, https:\/\/wpcdn.web.wsu.edu\/extension\/uploads\/sites\/62\/2025\/10\/jade-plant-pinching-3-200x300.jpg 200w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Figure 14. Pinching can improve the look of a plant and stimulate new growth. Image credit: Adobe Stock.<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading  wsu-heading--style-marked\" id=\"ch14-pests-household-plants\">Pests of Household Plants<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>Prevention is the best way to protect your houseplants from pests. New plants and plants coming in from outside should be quarantined (i.e., kept in a separate room of your house away from your other plants) and monitored. Use clean tools, containers, and planting media when repotting.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Integrated pest management (IPM) strategies should be used whenever possible (see Chapter 21: Plant Health Care and Integrated Pest Management). If you are considering the use of pesticides, make sure the product is labelled for indoor use. Always read and follow all label directions.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Three of the most common pests you might encounter are fungus gnats, scale insects, and whiteflies (Table 1). Look for these pests and any other pests before you move a plant into your home, then continue to check during your regular waterings.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wsu-spacing-after--large\">For information on specific pests, see <a rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" href=\"http:\/\/pestsense.cahnrs.wsu.edu\/\" data-type=\"URL\" data-id=\"http:\/\/pestsense.cahnrs.wsu.edu\/\" target=\"_blank\">WSU Pestsense (opens in new window)<\/a> fact sheets on houseplant pests and the Pacific Northwest Pest Management Handbook\u2019s section on <a rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" href=\"https:\/\/pnwhandbooks.org\/insect\/hort\/greenhouse\" data-type=\"URL\" data-id=\"https:\/\/pnwhandbooks.org\/insect\/hort\/greenhouse\" target=\"_blank\">Greenhouse Ornamental Pests (opens in new window)<\/a>. (Note: treatment recommendations for greenhouse pests may not be appropriate for houseplants.)<\/p>\n\n\n<span id=\"tablepress-84-description\" class=\"tablepress-table-description tablepress-table-description-id-84\">Table 1. Three common houseplant pests.<\/span>\n\n<table id=\"tablepress-84\" class=\"tablepress tablepress-id-84\" aria-describedby=\"tablepress-84-description\">\n<thead>\n<tr class=\"row-1 odd\">\n\t<th class=\"column-1\">Fungus gnats<\/th><th class=\"column-2\">Scale insects<\/th><th class=\"column-3\">Whiteflies<\/th>\n<\/tr>\n<\/thead>\n<tbody class=\"row-hover\">\n<tr class=\"row-2 even\">\n\t<td class=\"column-1\">Tiny, dark flies whose larvae damage roots. A healthy plant can tolerate some damage, but plants that repeatedly suffer heavy infestation should be discarded.<\/td><td class=\"column-2\">Tiny insects with a hard, typically oval-shaped shell. Some species produce a sticky honeydew, which may foster black sooty mold.<\/td><td class=\"column-3\">Small, white flies that fly around an infested plant when disturbed. Adults and larvae feed on the underside of leaves. Relatives of scale insects, they may also leave behind honeydew.<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n<!-- #tablepress-84 from cache -->\n\n\n<div class=\"wsu-card-wrapper wsu-card-wrapper--per-row-3\" >\r\n    \n<article class=\"wsu-card\">\r\n\t\t<div class=\"wsu-image-frame wsu-image--ratio-1-1\">\r\n\t\t\t\t\t<img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/wpcdn.web.wsu.edu\/extension\/uploads\/sites\/62\/2025\/11\/Table_01a-1x1-1.jpg\"\r\n\t\t\t\tsrcset=\"https:\/\/wpcdn.web.wsu.edu\/extension\/uploads\/sites\/62\/2025\/11\/Table_01a-1x1-1.jpg 300w, https:\/\/wpcdn.web.wsu.edu\/extension\/uploads\/sites\/62\/2025\/11\/Table_01a-1x1-1-150x150.jpg 150w\"\r\n\t\t\t\tsizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\"\r\n\t\t\t\talt=\"Several small, dark fungus gnats stuck to a yellow sticky trap, used to monitor insects whose larvae can damage plant roots.\"\r\n\t\t\t\tstyle=\"object-position: 50% 50%\"\r\n\t\t\t\/>\r\n\t\t\t<\/div>\r\n\t\t<div class=\"wsu-card__content\">\r\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"wsu-caption\">\r\n\t\t\t\tPhoto: Whitney Cranshaw, Colorado State University, Bugwood.org. Licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 3.0 License.\t\t\t<\/div>\r\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\r\n\t<\/article>\n\n<article class=\"wsu-card\">\r\n\t\t<div class=\"wsu-image-frame wsu-image--ratio-1-1\">\r\n\t\t\t\t\t<img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/wpcdn.web.wsu.edu\/extension\/uploads\/sites\/62\/2025\/11\/Table_01b-1x1-1.jpg\"\r\n\t\t\t\tsrcset=\"https:\/\/wpcdn.web.wsu.edu\/extension\/uploads\/sites\/62\/2025\/11\/Table_01b-1x1-1.jpg 300w, https:\/\/wpcdn.web.wsu.edu\/extension\/uploads\/sites\/62\/2025\/11\/Table_01b-1x1-1-150x150.jpg 150w\"\r\n\t\t\t\tsizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\"\r\n\t\t\t\talt=\"Cluster of small, oval, hard-shelled scale insects attached along a plant stem; some species excrete honeydew that can lead to black sooty mold.\"\r\n\t\t\t\tstyle=\"object-position: 50% 50%\"\r\n\t\t\t\/>\r\n\t\t\t<\/div>\r\n\t\t<div class=\"wsu-card__content\">\r\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"wsu-caption\">\r\n\t\t\t\tImage credit: A. Steven Munson, USDA Forest Service, Bugwood.org. Licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 3.0 License.\t\t\t<\/div>\r\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\r\n\t<\/article>\n\n<article class=\"wsu-card\">\r\n\t\t<div class=\"wsu-image-frame wsu-image--ratio-1-1\">\r\n\t\t\t\t\t<img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/wpcdn.web.wsu.edu\/extension\/uploads\/sites\/62\/2025\/11\/Table_01c-1x1-1.jpg\"\r\n\t\t\t\tsrcset=\"https:\/\/wpcdn.web.wsu.edu\/extension\/uploads\/sites\/62\/2025\/11\/Table_01c-1x1-1.jpg 300w, https:\/\/wpcdn.web.wsu.edu\/extension\/uploads\/sites\/62\/2025\/11\/Table_01c-1x1-1-150x150.jpg 150w\"\r\n\t\t\t\tsizes=\"(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px\"\r\n\t\t\t\talt=\"Large cluster of tiny whiteflies covering the underside of a leaf; small, pale insects that flutter when disturbed and whose larvae feed on leaf surfaces, often leaving honeydew.\"\r\n\t\t\t\tstyle=\"object-position: 50% 50%\"\r\n\t\t\t\/>\r\n\t\t\t<\/div>\r\n\t\t<div class=\"wsu-card__content\">\r\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"wsu-caption\">\r\n\t\t\t\tImage credit: Whitney Cranshaw, Colorado State University, Bugwood.org. Licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 3.0 License.\t\t\t<\/div>\r\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\r\n\t<\/article>\n<\/div>\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading wsu-heading--style-marked wsu-spacing-before--xmedium\" id=\"ch14-care-commonly-gifted-houseplants\">Care of Commonly Gifted Houseplants<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>Houseplants are raised in greenhouses where light, temperature, and humidity are controlled. When these plants are brought into a home environment, houseplants require a period of adjustment. Some plants you buy or receive as a gift may not be suitable to your indoor growing conditions, while others can thrive for many years. The following are guidelines for caring for some popular houseplants.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><em>Poinsettia<\/em><\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>Poinsettias (<em>Euphorbia<\/em>) are native to Mexico and are available in white, pink, and red with stripes and speckled patterns. They require bright light and should be kept away from drafts. A temperature between 65\u00b0F and 70\u00b0F is ideal. Avoid temperatures below 60\u00b0F and above 75\u00b0F. Keep plants well watered, but do not overwater. Some long-lasting varieties will be attractive all winter.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Gardeners frequently ask whether they can make their poinsettias bloom again next year. You must judge, for yourself, if the results are worth the effort. The quality of homegrown plants seldom equals that of commercially grown plants, but the excitement of seeing your plant rebloom can be worth it.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wsu-spacing-after--xsmall\">To make your poinsettia rebloom the following year follow these steps:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ol>\n<li>After the bracts (the colorful part of the poinsettia) fade or fall, set the plant where temperatures are around 55\u00b0F to 60\u00b0F and where it will receive indirect light.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Cut the plant back to about five inches from the ground and repot in fresh soil.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Water sparingly during this time, just enough to keep the stems from shriveling.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>As soon as new growth begins, place in a well-lighted window. After all danger of frost, place the pot outdoors in a partially shaded spot.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Pinch the new growth back to get a plant with several stems. Do not pinch after September 1. About Labor Day, or as soon as the nights are cool, bring the plant indoors.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Continue to grow in a sunny room with a night temperature of about 65\u00b0F.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>The poinsettia blooms only during short days. To initiate \u201cblooms\u201d (actually, the changing of bract coloration\u2014not flowering), exclude artificial light, either by covering with a lightproof box each evening or placing in an unlighted room or closet for a minimum of 12 hours of darkness. Plants require full light in the daytime, so be sure to return them to a sunny window. Start the short-day treatment in about mid-September to have blooms between December 1 and Christmas.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n<p>The poinsettia is mildly toxic if digested by pets and humans and generally has a worse reputation as poisonous than is warranted. When high quantities are eaten, vomiting, nausea, and a loss of appetite will result. The white, sticky sap that is secreted when damaged can potentially cause skin or eye irritation to sensitive individuals.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>The plant is susceptible to mealybugs, aphids, spider mites, scale, and fungus gnats. Check the nodes and the underside of leaves for insects. Common diseases associated with poinsettia are&nbsp;root rots, leaf-spot disease, botrytis, powdery mildew, and southern blight.&nbsp;<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><em>Greenhouse Azalea<\/em><\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>Greenhouse azaleas (Rhododendron) have exotic flowers and dark green leaves and are native to the temperate regions of Asia, North America, and Europe, as well as to the tropical regions of southeast Asia and northern Australia. They require direct sunlight and acidic soil (a pH between 4.5 and 6.0) to remain healthy. A nighttime temperature of 60\u00b0F will prolong bloom. Keep the soil constantly moist. Do not use softened water. If the leaves turn yellow, the soil is not acidic enough. Use an acidic fertilizer sold especially for azaleas. When repotting, use a mixture high in acidic peat moss.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Azaleas can be planted in the original pot in a shady spot in the garden during the summer months. Examine them frequently, and keep them watered during dry periods. Greenhouse azaleas are not hardy and need to be brought indoors before freezing weather.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Azaleas need a cool rest treatment before they are forced into bloom. Place the plants in a garage or basement that has filtered light with a temperature between 35\u00b0F and 50\u00b0F for twelve weeks. During this rest period, flower buds will develop. Place the plant in a sunny window where temperatures are warm (65\u00b0F) and then water. The plant should break bud quickly and bloom.<\/p>\n\n\n<div class=\"wsu-callout wsu-border--color-vineyard wsu-callout--style-basic wsu-color-background--gray-5 wsu-border--add-left wsu-align-item--center wsu-spacing-after--large wsu-spacing-before--large wsu-max-width--xxmedium\" >\r\n        \n\n<p class=\"wsu-font-size--medium\">Check out the <a href=\"https:\/\/www.aspca.org\/pet-care\/animal-poison-control\/toxic-and-non-toxic-plants\" data-type=\"URL\" data-id=\"https:\/\/www.aspca.org\/pet-care\/animal-poison-control\/toxic-and-non-toxic-plants\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals\u2019 (opens in new window)<\/a> website for pet-friendly and pet-toxic plants.<\/p>\n\n<\/div>\r\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><em>Gardenia<\/em><\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>Gardenias are in the coffee family (Rubiaceae) and are native to the tropics and subtropical regions of Africa, Asia, Madagascar, Australia, and the Pacific Islands. This houseplant is known for its fragrant white flowers and deep green leaves. They are also some of the more challenging plants to grow in a home environment. The night temperature should be near 60\u00b0F, and the humidity around the plant should be kept high. High temperature and low light intensity will result in flower bud drop. They require acidic soil with a pH between 5 and 6. They can be fertilized in the same way as azaleas.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><em>Amaryllis<\/em><\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>Native to Central and South America, amaryllis (<em>Hippeastrum<\/em>) are in the lily family and are tender bulbs. The secret to growing amaryllis is to keep the plants actively growing after they finish blooming. Keep the plants in full sun, and maintain a nighttime temperature above 60\u00b0F. As soon as danger of frost has passed, set the plants in the garden in a semi-shaded spot. In the fall, before danger of frost, bring them in and store them in a cold, dark place to rest. They will be ready to <a href=\"https:\/\/extension.wsu.edu\/pnw-gardeners-handbook\/glossary\/#f\" data-type=\"URL\" data-id=\"https:\/\/extension.wsu.edu\/pnw-gardeners-handbook\/glossary\/#f\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\"><strong>force<\/strong> (opens in new window)<\/a> again about January first. Bring them into a warm, well-lit room, and water moderately to begin new growth.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><em>Holiday Cacti<\/em><\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>Holiday cacti (<em>Schlumbergera<\/em>) are native to mountainous areas of Brazil. Different species are referred to as the Christmas cactus (<em>S. russelliana; syn. bridgesii, xbuckleyi<\/em>), the Thanksgiving cactus (<em>S. truncata<\/em>), and the Easter cactus (<em>S. gaertneri<\/em>) because of the time of year they tend to bloom. Holiday cacti bloom best when somewhat pot-bound. All are cladophylls; their stems are flattened and assume the photosynthetic functions for the plants usually done by leaves.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Members of the cactus family (<em>Cactaceae<\/em>), these plants are also epiphytes, meaning they grow on other plants but are not parasitic. All have similar cultural requirements but initiate blooms with different day-length conditions. Christmas and Thanksgiving cacti are short-day plants, meaning they are prompted to set bud when days become shorter and temperatures cooler. They will develop buds and blooms if given bright light, short days, and nighttime temperatures between 55\u00b0F and 65\u00b0F.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Easter cactus is a long-day plant. It develops flower buds as days get longer and temperatures warmer. This cactus has flowers shaped differently from the short-day holiday cacti. As its common name implies, it blooms in early spring.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Repotting of holiday cacti is necessary only about every three years. Full sunlight is beneficial in midwinter. Plants can be moved outside after the threat of frost has passed into partial to full shade. Being epiphytic, these plants naturally grow shaded by a canopy of leaves.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Holiday cacti perform best when grown in well-drained soil. They require less water from October to March than they do when growth is active from April to September. A rest period is very important if plants are to bloom abundantly.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><em>Cyclamen<\/em><\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>Cyclamen, a flowering perennial herb of the primrose family (<em>Primulaceae<\/em>), are native to the&nbsp;Middle East and southern and central Europe. They require full sunlight and a nighttime temperature between 50\u00b0F and 60\u00b0F. Flower buds will fail to develop if nighttime temperatures are too high or if light is poor. They also require consistently moist soil and must be watered whenever the surface of the soil is dry.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Cyclamen can be grown from year to year, but as with the poinsettia, homegrown plants are seldom equal to those grown by a commercial grower. Let the plants go dormant after they finish flowering. The leaves will yellow and fall off so that all the energy goes to the corm. Allow resting corm to dry but not become shriveled. Repot the fleshy corm after an eight- to twelve-week rest, with the top of the corm above the soil line.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Few pests find the cyclamen desirable. Occasionally, they are attacked by aphids, mealy bugs, thrips, or spider mites.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><em>African Violet<\/em><\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>A popular houseplant and Mother\u2019s Day gift since the 1940s, African violets are native to higher elevations in tropical eastern Africa. They are in the family Gesneriaceae. The common varieties are very different from what is found in the wild, and there is no relation to the violet family.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>In general, African violets need just enough water to keep the soil moist but never soggy. Too much water will leave your African violet susceptible to root rot and crown rot. Notice many varieties of African violets have hairy leaves which may trap water, leading to foliar rot. They are a good candidate for wick- or capillary mat-type watering.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>African violet require frequent grooming to remove spent flowers and leaves. An east window and 70\u00b0F provide perfect growing conditions. Use fertilizer specifically labeled for African violet. It is standard to repot an African violet whenever the stem or \u201cneck\u201d of the plant is showing. For standard and trailing varieties, this may be once a year. For miniature and semi-miniature, this may be as often as every three months.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading  wsu-heading--style-marked\" id=\"ch14-propagating-houseplants\">Propagating Houseplants<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>Many common houseplants are herbaceous and easily propagated by leaf or stem cuttings or by rooting stem cuttings in water. A few produce plantlets. Refer to Tables 2, 3, and 4 to determine which method works best for a given plant.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wsu-spacing-after--large\">Table 4 lists a few common houseplants that produce plantlets as a matter of regular growth which can be separated from the parent plant and easily started.<\/p>\n\n\n<span id=\"tablepress-87-description\" class=\"tablepress-table-description tablepress-table-description-id-87\">Table 2. Stem cuttings: list of common houseplant propagation candidates.<\/span>\n\n<table id=\"tablepress-87\" class=\"tablepress tablepress-id-87\" aria-describedby=\"tablepress-87-description\">\n<thead>\n<tr class=\"row-1 odd\">\n\t<th class=\"column-1\">Botanical Name<\/th><th class=\"column-2\">Common Name<\/th>\n<\/tr>\n<\/thead>\n<tbody class=\"row-hover\">\n<tr class=\"row-2 even\">\n\t<td class=\"column-1\"><em>Abutilon<\/em><\/td><td class=\"column-2\">Chinese lantern, flowering maple, velvetleaf<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr class=\"row-3 odd\">\n\t<td class=\"column-1\"><em>Acalypha<\/em><\/td><td class=\"column-2\">Chenille plant, red-hot cattail, Jacob\u2019s coat<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr class=\"row-4 even\">\n\t<td class=\"column-1\"><em>Aeschynanthus<\/em><\/td><td class=\"column-2\">Lipstick plant<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr class=\"row-5 odd\">\n\t<td class=\"column-1\"><em>Alloplectus<\/em><\/td><td class=\"column-2\">Goldfish plant<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr class=\"row-6 even\">\n\t<td class=\"column-1\"><em>Cissus<\/em><\/td><td class=\"column-2\">Grape ivy<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr class=\"row-7 odd\">\n\t<td class=\"column-1\"><em>Codiaeum<\/em><\/td><td class=\"column-2\">Croton, Joseph\u2019s coat<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr class=\"row-8 even\">\n\t<td class=\"column-1\"><em>Coleus<\/em><\/td><td class=\"column-2\"><span class=\"wsu-screen-reader-only\">Not applicable<\/span><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr class=\"row-9 odd\">\n\t<td class=\"column-1\"><em>Crassula<\/em><\/td><td class=\"column-2\">Jade plant<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr class=\"row-10 even\">\n\t<td class=\"column-1\"><em>Crossandra<\/em><\/td><td class=\"column-2\">Firecracker plant<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr class=\"row-11 odd\">\n\t<td class=\"column-1\"><em>Epiphyllum<\/em><\/td><td class=\"column-2\">Leaf cactus, orchid cactus<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr class=\"row-12 even\">\n\t<td class=\"column-1\"><em>Ficus<\/em><\/td><td class=\"column-2\">Figs, rubber plant<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr class=\"row-13 odd\">\n\t<td class=\"column-1\"><em>Fittonia<\/em><\/td><td class=\"column-2\">Mosaic plant, nerve plant<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr class=\"row-14 even\">\n\t<td class=\"column-1\"><em>Gardenia<\/em><\/td><td class=\"column-2\">Cape jasmine<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr class=\"row-15 odd\">\n\t<td class=\"column-1\"><em>Geranium<\/em><\/td><td class=\"column-2\">Cranesbill<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr class=\"row-16 even\">\n\t<td class=\"column-1\"><em>Gynura<\/em><\/td><td class=\"column-2\">Purple passion vine, velvet plant<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr class=\"row-17 odd\">\n\t<td class=\"column-1\"><em>Hibiscus<\/em><\/td><td class=\"column-2\">Rose mallow<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr class=\"row-18 even\">\n\t<td class=\"column-1\"><em>Hoya<\/em><\/td><td class=\"column-2\">Wax plant<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr class=\"row-19 odd\">\n\t<td class=\"column-1\"><em>Iresine<\/em><\/td><td class=\"column-2\">Blood-leaf<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr class=\"row-20 even\">\n\t<td class=\"column-1\"><em>Ixora<\/em><\/td><td class=\"column-2\">Jungle geranium<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr class=\"row-21 odd\">\n\t<td class=\"column-1\"><em>Jasminum<\/em><\/td><td class=\"column-2\">Jasmine<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr class=\"row-22 even\">\n\t<td class=\"column-1\"><em>Justicia<\/em><\/td><td class=\"column-2\">Shrimp plant<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr class=\"row-23 odd\">\n\t<td class=\"column-1\"><em>Kalanchoe<\/em><\/td><td class=\"column-2\"><span class=\"wsu-screen-reader-only\">Not applicable<\/span><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr class=\"row-24 even\">\n\t<td class=\"column-1\"><em>Nephthytis<\/em><\/td><td class=\"column-2\">Angel wing<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr class=\"row-25 odd\">\n\t<td class=\"column-1\"><em>Pachystachys<\/em><\/td><td class=\"column-2\">Golden candle<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr class=\"row-26 even\">\n\t<td class=\"column-1\"><em>Passiflora<\/em><\/td><td class=\"column-2\">Passion flower<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr class=\"row-27 odd\">\n\t<td class=\"column-1\"><em>Pelargonium<\/em><\/td><td class=\"column-2\">Geranium<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr class=\"row-28 even\">\n\t<td class=\"column-1\"><em>Pellionia<\/em><\/td><td class=\"column-2\">Trailing watermelon begonia<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr class=\"row-29 odd\">\n\t<td class=\"column-1\"><em>Peperomia<\/em><\/td><td class=\"column-2\">Radiator plant<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr class=\"row-30 even\">\n\t<td class=\"column-1\"><em>Philodendron<\/em><\/td><td class=\"column-2\"><span class=\"wsu-screen-reader-only\">Not applicable<\/span><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr class=\"row-31 odd\">\n\t<td class=\"column-1\"><em>Pilea<\/em><\/td><td class=\"column-2\">Aluminum plant, baby\u2019s tears, creeping Charlie<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr class=\"row-32 even\">\n\t<td class=\"column-1\"><em>Plumbago<\/em><\/td><td class=\"column-2\">Leadwort<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr class=\"row-33 odd\">\n\t<td class=\"column-1\"><em>Pothos<\/em><\/td><td class=\"column-2\"><span class=\"wsu-screen-reader-only\">Not applicable<\/span><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr class=\"row-34 even\">\n\t<td class=\"column-1\"><em>Rhoicissus<\/em><\/td><td class=\"column-2\">Evergreen grape ivy<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr class=\"row-35 odd\">\n\t<td class=\"column-1\"><em>Schlumbergera<\/em><\/td><td class=\"column-2\">Christmas cactus<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr class=\"row-36 even\">\n\t<td class=\"column-1\"><em>Stephanotis<\/em><\/td><td class=\"column-2\">Madagascar jasmine, waxflower<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr class=\"row-37 odd\">\n\t<td class=\"column-1\"><em>Tradescantia<\/em><\/td><td class=\"column-2\">Inch plant<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n<!-- #tablepress-87 from cache -->\n\n\n<span id=\"tablepress-85-description\" class=\"tablepress-table-description tablepress-table-description-id-85\">Table 3. Leaf cuttings: list of common houseplant propagation candidates.<\/span>\n\n<table id=\"tablepress-85\" class=\"tablepress tablepress-id-85\" aria-describedby=\"tablepress-85-description\">\n<thead>\n<tr class=\"row-1 odd\">\n\t<th class=\"column-1\">Botanical Name<\/th><th class=\"column-2\">Common Name<\/th>\n<\/tr>\n<\/thead>\n<tbody class=\"row-hover\">\n<tr class=\"row-2 even\">\n\t<td class=\"column-1\"><i>Begonia<\/i><\/td><td class=\"column-2\"><span class=\"wsu-screen-reader-only\">Not applicable<\/span><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr class=\"row-3 odd\">\n\t<td class=\"column-1\"><i>Crassula<\/i><\/td><td class=\"column-2\">Jade plant<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr class=\"row-4 even\">\n\t<td class=\"column-1\"><i>Gloxinia<\/i><\/td><td class=\"column-2\"><span class=\"wsu-screen-reader-only\">Not applicable<\/span><\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr class=\"row-5 odd\">\n\t<td class=\"column-1\"><i>Saintpaulia<\/i><\/td><td class=\"column-2\">African violet<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr class=\"row-6 even\">\n\t<td class=\"column-1\"><i>Sansevieria<\/i><\/td><td class=\"column-2\">Mother-in-law plant, snake plant<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr class=\"row-7 odd\">\n\t<td class=\"column-1\"><i>Sedum<\/i><\/td><td class=\"column-2\">Burro\u2019s tail, stonecrop<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr class=\"row-8 even\">\n\t<td class=\"column-1\"><i>Streptocarpus<\/i><\/td><td class=\"column-2\">Cape primrose<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n<!-- #tablepress-85 from cache -->\n\n\n<span id=\"tablepress-86-description\" class=\"tablepress-table-description tablepress-table-description-id-86\">Table 4. Plantlets: list of common houseplant propagation candidates.<\/span>\n\n<table id=\"tablepress-86\" class=\"tablepress tablepress-id-86\" aria-describedby=\"tablepress-86-description\">\n<thead>\n<tr class=\"row-1 odd\">\n\t<th class=\"column-1\">Botanical Name<\/th><th class=\"column-2\">Common Name<\/th>\n<\/tr>\n<\/thead>\n<tbody class=\"row-hover\">\n<tr class=\"row-2 even\">\n\t<td class=\"column-1\"><i>Chlorophytum comosum<\/i><\/td><td class=\"column-2\">Spider plant<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr class=\"row-3 odd\">\n\t<td class=\"column-1\"><i>Saxifraga<\/i> spp.<\/td><td class=\"column-2\">Mother-of-thousands, strawberry begonia<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr class=\"row-4 even\">\n\t<td class=\"column-1\"><i>Tolmiea<\/i> spp.<\/td><td class=\"column-2\">Mother-of-thousands, piggyback plant, pick-a-back plant<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/tbody>\n<\/table>\n<!-- #tablepress-86 from cache -->\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading wsu-spacing-before--large\"><em>General Propagation Instructions<\/em><\/h3>\n\n\n\n<ul>\n<li>Cleanliness is very important. Make sure all tools, equipment, and containers are clean and disinfected.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Water plants the day before taking cuttings. This will reduce stress and dehydration.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Use a mix of \u00bd perlite and \u00bd medium grade peat moss or coir or \u00bd vermiculite and \u00bd medium-grade peat moss or coir as a rooting medium. (See Planting Media section.)<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Cuttings will successfully produce roots without use of a rooting hormone; however, using a rooting hormone (e.g., Bontone Rooting Powder II) will speed up the process. Be careful to treat only the cut surface, and flick off excess from tip.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Root many cuttings in one shallow container to save space and medium.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Place containers of cuttings inside plastic bags and tie closed to retain moisture. Use supports to hold plastic up to keep it from touching cuttings.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Place containers in a warm, brightly lit area. Avoid direct sun since the resulting trapped heat will damage cuttings.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Check containers regularly for adequate moisture. Punch a few holes in the plastic if soil is too wet.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Check for rooting by using a narrow spatula or popsicle stick to lift the cuttings. Do not pull on them. When you see nice root formation, cuttings are ready for transplant.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Gently lift and plant into separate small pots.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Transplant to a larger pot (next size up) after the plant is established and growing well.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n<div class=\"wsu-callout wsu-border--color-vineyard wsu-callout--style-basic wsu-color-background--gray-5 wsu-border--add-left wsu-align-item--center wsu-spacing-after--large wsu-spacing-before--large wsu-max-width--xxmedium\" >\r\n        \n\n<p class=\"wsu-font-size--medium\">Interested in learning more about African violet? Check out the <a href=\"https:\/\/africanvioletsocietyofamerica.org\/learn\/violets-101\/\" data-type=\"URL\" data-id=\"https:\/\/africanvioletsocietyofamerica.org\/learn\/violets-101\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">African Violet Society of America (opens in new window)<\/a> for good growing information.<\/p>\n\n<\/div>\r\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\"><em>Instructions for Specific Types of Cuttings<\/em><\/h3>\n\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading wsu-spacing-after--xsmall\">Stem Cuttings<\/h4>\n\n\n\n<ul>\n<li>Fill containers with rooting mix as described in the Planting Media section. Make small holes with stake, pencil, etc.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Take cuttings from newer stems by cutting just below the third or fourth pair or single leaf or leaves. Remove a few of the lower leaves, leaving two sets or several single leaves on top.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Dip the cut end of the stem in water and then rooting hormone, following the label instructions. Place the cutting in the rooting media, being careful not to knock off the rooting hormone. Close the rooting mix around the stem.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Label each cutting with the plant name and date.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"alignright size-full is-resized\"><img decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" src=\"https:\/\/wpcdn.web.wsu.edu\/extension\/uploads\/sites\/62\/2025\/10\/Fig_15-1.jpg\" alt=\"Someone holds a jade leaf in their open hand. The leaf is growing roots and new, smaller leaves from the base.\" class=\"wp-image-2991\" width=\"450\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/wpcdn.web.wsu.edu\/extension\/uploads\/sites\/62\/2025\/10\/Fig_15-1.jpg 600w, https:\/\/wpcdn.web.wsu.edu\/extension\/uploads\/sites\/62\/2025\/10\/Fig_15-1-300x200.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 450px) 100vw, 450px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Figure 15. A jade (<em>Crassula<\/em> spp.) leaf that is gently broken off and left to rest atop the soil produces roots and new leaves. Photo: Noelle Hart\/WSU.<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading wsu-spacing-after--medium\">Leaf Cuttings\u2014Whole Leaves<\/h4>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wsu-spacing-after--xsmall\">This method works especially well with plants having fleshy leaves, such as begonias, African violets, and gloxinias. Jade plants are also easy to propagate from leaves (Figure 15).<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul>\n<li>Cut healthy, mature leaves from parent plant. Take about one inch of leaf stalk (petiole) with the cutting, if possible.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Insert stalk into rooting media so that the leaf blade does not touch the mix.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading wsu-spacing-after--xsmall\">Cut or Scored Leaves<\/h4>\n\n\n\n<ul>\n<li>Leaves with prominent veins such as those found on begonias and cape primrose will produce new plants when they are scored or cut into pieces. Leaves or pieces of leaves are placed so that veins are in contact with rooting media.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>When small plants develop, carefully lift, separate, and pot them individually in three-inch pots.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Some succulents such as <em>Sansevieria<\/em> can simply be cut into sections, resulting in many new plants.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n<div class=\"wsu-callout wsu-border--color-vineyard wsu-callout--style-basic wsu-color-background--gray-5 wsu-border--add-left wsu-align-item--center wsu-spacing-after--large wsu-spacing-before--large wsu-max-width--xxmedium\" >\r\n        \n\n<p class=\"wsu-font-size--medium\">Rooting hormones occur naturally in plants and are commonly available in liquid and powdered form. These products provide supplemental amounts of auxin, a natural plant hormone that helps with root development. Rooting hormone speeds up the process of growing new plants and ensures greater success, but it is not necessary.<\/p>\n\n<\/div>\r\n\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading wsu-spacing-after--xsmall\">Rooting Stem Cuttings in Water<\/h4>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wsu-spacing-after--xsmall\">This is one of the most common and popular methods of propagating new plants but is not one of the best ways to promote a healthy root system.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul>\n<li>Fill a glass or a jar with water. Place in a bright, warm area.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>With a clean, sharp blade, remove healthy cuttings four to six inches in length. Choose stems that have only a short distance between nodes. Cut just above a node.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Trim the cutting to just below a node. Remove lower leaves so that you have a length of bare stem at the base.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Insert the cutting through wire mesh or other support so that stem is suspended in the water.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Keep water topped so that lower part of cutting is always below water surface.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Roots should develop quickly. When cuttings have a small network of roots, plant each in a three-inch container. If you allow the cutting to produce an extensive root system, it may not transplant well.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>In general, any plant with a leafy stem will propagate in water. Some that do particularly well are coleus, geranium, ivy, peperomia, and pothos.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\">\n<figure class=\"alignright size-full is-resized\"><img decoding=\"async\" loading=\"lazy\" src=\"https:\/\/wpcdn.web.wsu.edu\/extension\/uploads\/sites\/62\/2025\/10\/Fig_16.jpg\" alt=\"Plantlets and root growth along the edges of a leaf.\" class=\"wp-image-2992\" width=\"450\" height=\"300\" srcset=\"https:\/\/wpcdn.web.wsu.edu\/extension\/uploads\/sites\/62\/2025\/10\/Fig_16.jpg 600w, https:\/\/wpcdn.web.wsu.edu\/extension\/uploads\/sites\/62\/2025\/10\/Fig_16-300x200.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 450px) 100vw, 450px\" \/><figcaption class=\"wp-element-caption\">Figure 16. Some plants produce plantlets along their leaves, like this <a rel=\"noreferrer noopener\" href=\"https:\/\/commons.wikimedia.org\/wiki\/Kalanchoe_daigremontiana\" target=\"_blank\">Kalanchoe daigremontiana (opens in new window)<\/a>. These plantlets can be removed and used to grow a separate plant. Photo: CrazyD, CC BY-SA 3.0, http:\/\/creativecommons.org\/licenses\/by-sa\/3.0\/, via Wikimedia Commons.<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n<h4 class=\"wp-block-heading wsu-spacing-after--xsmall\">Plantlets<\/h4>\n\n\n\n<p>Plantlets are the new, small plants that grow on the parent plant\u2019s leaves, stolons, stems, or flowers (Figure 16).<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul>\n<li>Detach plantlets from parent. Leave about one inch of stalk or stolon where appropriate.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Insert stalk or base of plantlet into rooting media so that plantlet rests on surface of the mix.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Roots should form in a few weeks. Pot plants on their own in three-inch containers.<\/li>\n\n\n\n<li>Plantlets of spider plants can be rooted while still attached to main plant and then detached when roots have formed.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<hr class=\"wp-block-separator has-alpha-channel-opacity\" \/>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading  wsu-heading--style-marked\" id=\"ch14-further-reading\">Further Reading<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p><a href=\"https:\/\/pubs.extension.wsu.edu\/\" data-type=\"URL\" data-id=\"https:\/\/pubs.extension.wsu.edu\/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">WSU Extension Publications (opens in new window)<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Kelley, K. 2023. <a href=\"https:\/\/extension.psu.edu\/caring-for-houseplants\" data-type=\"URL\" data-id=\"https:\/\/extension.psu.edu\/caring-for-houseplants\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Caring for Houseplants (opens in new window)<\/a>. PennState Extension. Pennsylvania State University.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Master Gardeners of King County. 2021. <a href=\"https:\/\/extension.wsu.edu\/king\/mg-home\/gardening-resources\/tip-sheets\/tip-sheet-15\" data-type=\"URL\" data-id=\"https:\/\/extension.wsu.edu\/king\/mg-home\/gardening-resources\/tip-sheets\/tip-sheet-15\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Houseplants\u2014Tip Sheet #15 (opens in new window)<\/a>. Washington State University Extension.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Toogood, A., ed. 1999. Plant Propagation: The Fully Illustrated Plant-by-Plant Manual of Practical Techniques. American Horticulture Society.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>University of Maryland Extension. 2023. <a href=\"https:\/\/extension.umd.edu\/resources\/yard-garden\/indoor-plants\/selection-and-care-indoor-plants\" data-type=\"URL\" data-id=\"https:\/\/extension.umd.edu\/resources\/yard-garden\/indoor-plants\/selection-and-care-indoor-plants\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Selection and Care of Indoor Plants (opens in new window)<\/a>. University of Maryland. <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Weisenhorn, J., and N. Hoidal. 2020. <a href=\"https:\/\/extension.umn.edu\/planting-and-growing-guides\/lighting-indoor-plants\" data-type=\"URL\" data-id=\"https:\/\/extension.umn.edu\/planting-and-growing-guides\/lighting-indoor-plants\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noreferrer noopener\">Lighting for Indoor Plants and Starting Seeds (opens in new window)<\/a>. University of Minnesota Extension. <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Toni Gwin, Associate Professor, Pacific County Extension, Washington State UniversityAdapted from Texas Master Gardener Handbook, compiled at Texas A&amp;M University by Douglas F. Welsh, Professor and Extension Horticulturist, Texas A&amp;M University, College Station, Texas, and Samuel D. Cotner, Extension Horticulturist, Horticulture Department Professor and Head, Texas A&amp;M University, College Station, Texas Introduction This chapter is [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":241,"featured_media":0,"parent":0,"menu_order":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","template":"","meta":{"_wsuwp_accessibility_report":null},"categories":[],"tags":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/extension.wsu.edu\/pnw-gardeners-handbook\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/1363"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/extension.wsu.edu\/pnw-gardeners-handbook\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/extension.wsu.edu\/pnw-gardeners-handbook\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/page"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/extension.wsu.edu\/pnw-gardeners-handbook\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/241"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/extension.wsu.edu\/pnw-gardeners-handbook\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=1363"}],"version-history":[{"count":127,"href":"https:\/\/extension.wsu.edu\/pnw-gardeners-handbook\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/1363\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":4827,"href":"https:\/\/extension.wsu.edu\/pnw-gardeners-handbook\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/pages\/1363\/revisions\/4827"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/extension.wsu.edu\/pnw-gardeners-handbook\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=1363"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/extension.wsu.edu\/pnw-gardeners-handbook\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=1363"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/extension.wsu.edu\/pnw-gardeners-handbook\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=1363"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}