{"id":29295,"date":"2026-09-26T12:55:45","date_gmt":"2026-09-26T19:55:45","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/extension.wsu.edu\/skagit\/?p=29295"},"modified":"2026-09-27T11:35:12","modified_gmt":"2026-09-27T18:35:12","slug":"drought-tolerant-groundcovers","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/extension.wsu.edu\/skagit\/2026\/09\/26\/drought-tolerant-groundcovers\/","title":{"rendered":"Drought-Tolerant Groundcovers"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Heroes in the Late Summer Heat: Drought-tolerant Groundcovers<\/h1>\n\n\n\n

Once established, these hardworking groundcovers go to work providing many benefits with little help from the gardener.<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

By Ginny Bode, WSU Extension Skagit County Master Gardener<\/p>\n\n\n\n

As the warmest days of summer are here, when temps tend to creep the highest, many garden perennials need regular watering to make it through to the cooler days of fall. Not so with these tough, hardworking perennial groundcovers. These drought-tolerant beauties are workhorses in the landscape, meeting a host of needs, including weed suppression, soil moisture retention, erosion prevention, and pollinator support. And the bonus is that they are low-maintenance.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In the garden, the term groundcover can refer to many things, including various mulches, hardscape, landscape fabric, and low-growing spreading perennials and evergreens. Here we\u2019ll focus on the abundance of drought-tolerant perennials less than 12\u201d tall, which will make your garden both beautiful and easier to maintain. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Low growing sedum performs well in the hot summer months. \u00a9 Photo: Ginny Bode<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Sorrel works well as a groundcover in the dry areas under trees. \u00a9 Photo: Ginny Bode<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Stonecrop (Sedum spp.) <\/em>is a large group of tough, easy-to-grow succulents that store water, making them very strong against dry heat and drought. \u00a9 Photo: Ginny Bode



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Rockcress is a low growing evergreen perennial that is ideal for edging pathways and filling rock gardens. \u00a9 Photo: Adobe Stock



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The Benefits of Groundcovers<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Weed Barrier<\/strong>
Low-growing groundcovers form a dense mat over the soil, reducing the amount of sunlight that reaches weed seeds. Their thick foliage competes with weeds for water and nutrients, making it harder for unwanted plants to establish. By quickly spreading and covering bare ground, these plants act as a natural barrier against weed growth. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Erosion Control<\/strong>
Ground covers anchor the soil with their extensive root systems, holding it in place on slopes and hillsides. Their foliage reduces the impact of raindrops, minimizing soil displacement and runoff. By forming a continuous, protective layer, ground covers effectively prevent soil erosion and help maintain hillside stability.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Low Maintenance<\/strong>
When we say low maintenance, how low do we mean? Very low. Once established, no regular water is needed; just rake out the dead leaves or leave them as mulch for weed suppression and food for beneficial insects and salamanders. Some may need trimming to contain every so often. These groundcovers work especially well for the gardener who wants a low-maintenance alternative to grass in a restricted area, such as a hellstrip or beside a sidewalk. Some are tough enough to take foot traffic\u2014but wear your shoes; pollinators like them too!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Pollinator Friendly<\/strong>
Many groundcovers produce flowers that attract bees, butterflies, and other beneficial insects. These plants provide a reliable source of nectar and pollen throughout the growing season. By supporting pollinators, ground covers contribute to a healthy and biodiverse garden ecosystem.<\/p>\n\n\n

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\r\n\t\t\t\tKinnikinnick\u00a0(Arctostaphylos uva-ursi)<\/em>\u00a0supports pollinators and birds. Does best in sandy areas and on slopes Photo \u00a9 Ginny Bode\t\t\t<\/div>\r\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\r\n\t<\/article>\n\n
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\r\n\t\t\t\tWoolly yarrow\u00a0(Achillea millefolium)\u00a0<\/em>Photo: \u00a9 Adobe Stock\t\t\t<\/div>\r\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\r\n\t<\/article>\n\n
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\r\n\t\t\t\tCreeping thyme\u00a0(Thymus serpyllum or T. praecox)\u00a0<\/em>loves dry summers. In the PNW, it is important to plant in well-drained sandy soil with 6-8 hours of sunlight. It is susceptible to root rot. Provides a lovely carpet of purple blooms that can tolerate light foot traffic Photo \u00a9 Ginny Bode\t\t\t<\/div>\r\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\r\n\t<\/article>\n<\/div>\n\n\n


Make your ground cover selection based on location and need.<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Different drought-tolerant groundcovers will be more successful in specific conditions. Some do a better job of binding to soil on rocky slopes or in seaside conditions. Others do better with some shade.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Consider your current situation and desires:
– Is it sunny and dry during the summer months? 
– Is the area shady and dry?
– Do you have a slope that needs erosion control?
– Do you desire that it is evergreen?
– Native or native hybrid?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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When Ralph Waldo Emerson wrote \u201cWhat is a weed but a plant whose attributes have not been discovered,\u201d he could have been looking at the native viola\/violet. Despite its reputation for being invasive, it performs well as a groundcover and can be mowed. Washington state is home to 25 species of violas, which support many types of wildlife. It loves sunny meadows and damp riverbanks. It is the exclusive food source for the caterpillars of the endangered Oregon silverspot butterfly. Photo \u00a9 Viola: Adobe Stock, Photo Silverspot \u00a9 Richard Gardner, Bugwood.org<\/p>\n\n\n

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Sun<\/strong>
– <\/em>Creeping raspberry aka crinkle-leaf creeper (Rubus pentalobus, synonym Rubus calycinoides)<\/em>
– <\/em>Rockcress (Aubrieta)\u2014<\/em>native or hybrid
– <\/em>Seaside daisy ‘White Lights\u2019 (Erigeron glaucus)<\/em>
– Stonecrop family (Crassulaceae<\/em>): Hens and chicks, sedum, and stonecrop are resilient, drought-tolerant succulent perennials that thrive in full sun and well-draining soil.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Shade:<\/strong>
– Mugworts (Artemisia pycnocephala) <\/em>\u2018David\u2019s Choice\u2019 handles sun or part shade
– Seaside daisy (Erigeron glaucus) <\/em>\u2018White Lights\u2019 or \u2018Cape Sebastian\u2019
– Wild ginger (Asarum caudatum)*<\/em>
– Oregon wood sorrel aka redwood sorrel (Oxalis oregana)*<\/em>
– Bunchberry (cornus canadensis)<\/em>*
– False lily-of-the valley (Maianthemum dilatatum<\/em>)*<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Slopes**<\/strong>
– Stonecrop (Sedum spp.)<\/em>
– Rockcress (Aubrieta deltoidea<\/em>)
– Hens and chicks (Sempervivum tectorum<\/em>)<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Evergreen:<\/strong>
– Kinnikinnick aka bearberry (Arctostaphylos uva-ursi)
<\/em>– Stonecrop (Sedum spp.)
<\/em>– Redwood creeping wintergreen (Gaultheria procumbens \u2018Redwood\u2019)<\/em>\u2014not to be confused with the invasive wintercreeper (Euonymus fortunei)<\/em><\/p>\n\n<\/div>\r\n\n\n

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Native (*) or Hybrid:<\/strong>
Native plants are species that occur naturally in our region or ecosystem without human intervention, having adapted over time to the local climate and soil conditions. Nurseries have developed hybrid plants by crossbreeding plant varieties or species to create different bloom colors or more desirable traits, such as reduced aggressiveness in spreading. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

– Creeping thyme (Thymus spp.<\/em>) and many color hybrids
– Turkish veronica\/Turkish speedwell (Veronica liwanensis<\/em>)
– Blue woolly veronica (Veronica pectinata<\/em>)\u2014well-behaved; not to be confused with ivyleaf speedwell, which is invasive in the Pacific Northwest.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

If you are interested in acquiring native ground covers, check out these and others on the Native Plant Society<\/a>‘s website:<\/p>\n\n\n\n

– Woodland\/wild strawberry (Fragaria vesca<\/em>) and beach strawberry (F. chiloensis<\/em>)*
– Kinnikinnick aka bearberry (Arctostaphylos uva-ursi)*<\/em>
– Foamflower (Tiarella trifoliata<\/em>)*\u2013can grow taller than 12\u201d in shade
– Western wild ginger (Asarum caudatum)*<\/em>
– <\/em>Oregon wood sorrel (Oxalis oregana)*
<\/em>– <\/em>Cascade rockcress* (Arabis furcata), <\/em>Olympic Mountain rockcress* (Arabis olympica), and <\/em>Nuttall’s rockcress* (Arabis nuttallii)<\/em><\/p>\n\n<\/div>\r\n\n<\/div>\n\n\n

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Woodland\/wild strawberry (Fragaria vesca) is not as aggressive as beach strawberry, growing to about a foot tall. Photo \u00a9 Adobe Stock<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Fire Suppression <\/strong>
Firewise gardening practices recommend creating a 5-foot perimeter around your home to help prevent fires. Ground covers can make this area beautiful while also deterring the possibility of fire. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

In Washington, plants with thick, juicy leaves called succulents are best for storing water. They soak up rain in the wet winter and save it for the dry summer. Plants in the sedum family rise to the top of the list because they actually store water during the heat of the summer, rather than becoming a dry and brittle fire hazard. This means that if a burning ember falls into this area, there is a greater chance it will burn out rather than flare up.
These are low-growing, drought-tolerant plants that actually store water:
– Rockcress (Arabis lyrata or A. pulchra<\/em>)
– Stonecrop (Sedum spp.<\/em>)
– Hens and chicks (Sempervivum spp.)<\/em>
– Sea thrift (Armeria maritima)*<\/em>
– <\/em>Rosy pussytoes (Antennaria rosea)*<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Other ideas can be found at Oregon State University’s Fire Resistant Plant Profiles<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

To learn more about wildfire preparedness and how to take steps to protect your home, read our blog post on Wildfire Preparedness for the Home Landscape<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ground Covers to Avoid: Too much of a good thing.<\/strong>
Because of their ability to spread, some groundcovers, when combined with perfect conditions, can be aggressive spreaders. Some, when they spread, are easy to remove; others, when they spread, you will be pulling them out for years (including cracks in the sidewalk), like vinca and violas. Before buying something that you\u2019ve never heard of, check out its characteristics and performance.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Some of these groundcovers may perform beautifully in gardens at a different altitude with colder winters, but can take over in low-lying areas with good soils\u2014such as the Skagit Valley. Always check your county noxious weed website before buying. Just because it is sold online doesn\u2019t mean it is a good actor in our climate. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Italian arum \u00a9 WA Noxious Weed Board<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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English ivy \u00a9 Randy Cyr, Greentree, Bugwood.org<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n
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Many older gardens in our area may have Italian arum and English ivy. Note that the aggressiveness of these plants has landed them a spot on the invasive species \u201cMost Unwanted\u201d list. They are difficult to eradicate and should never be planted or encouraged. <\/p>\n\n<\/div>\r\n\n\n\n

Though readily available at nurseries in our area, these ground covers are best when planted in a container because they are very difficult to eradicate once they invade other areas: <\/p>\n\n\n\n

– Lily-of-the-valley (Convallaria majalis<\/em>)
– Creeping jenny (Lysimachia nummularia<\/em>)
– Periwinkle (Vinca<\/em> minor and V. major)<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Preparing for planting a groundcover<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n