Washington State 4-H Guide to Dog Showmanship

Chapter 3: Handling Skills

Gaiting

Gait is defined by the pattern of footsteps at various rates of speed, each pattern distinguished by a particular rhythm and footfall. The walk, gallop, and trot are the most common gaits. The amble, pace, and canter are also types of gait. The two types of gait acceptable in the show ring are the walk and the trot. Your dog should move at the proper gait for its breed.

Each handler must learn what gait is correct for their dog and breed. With a small dog you can walk. You must determine what gaiting speed best shows your dog’s movement. It is helpful to have someone watch you gait your dog and tell you at what speed your dog looks best. If you go too fast, your dog will gallop or canter; too slow and they will pace, meaning the legs on the same side are moving together. At the proper speed, your dog will move smoothly with its legs reaching forward efficiently. This is called reach and drive.

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Learning to Gait Your Dog

• Hold the lead in your left hand next to the dog, neatly gathering the excess lead in your hand where it is out of sight. Avoid wrapping the lead around your hand which can cause injury if the dog pulls. The lead should not be held so tightly that it chokes the dog.

• Make sure you position the collar and lead high up under the chin before you start gaiting the dog.
  • If your breed is shown on a taut lead, you will need to place your dog’s collar high up under the chin where the muzzle meets the body, and right behind the ears between the head and neck.
  • If your breed is shown on a loose lead, you will need to rotate the collar so that the lead comes out from under the dog’s chin on the right side.
• Your dog will gait on your left side around the ring. You will move counterclockwise in a big circle. You should use the whole ring if you have a large or medium-sized dog. With a smaller dog it is acceptable to make a smaller circle.
• Your dog should stay away from your body and be next to or ahead of you while gaiting, so as not to interfere with your natural movement.
• A lagging dog may gait too slowly to best demonstrate their structure and movement.
• When gaiting your dog, it is preferable that the dog look straight ahead instead of at you to allow the judge to see your dog’s full profile in motion. When training your dog, it may be helpful to throw a treat or a toy out straight ahead as he is gaiting so that your dog learns to look ahead and not back at you. This can also help a lagging dog move out faster. Remember that throwing the bait or toys in the ring is not allowed, but it is a good practice technique.
• Crowding or running up on the dogs in front of you can happen if you do not use proper timing and control. When group gaiting, leave enough space between you and the dog in front of you to avoid getting too close.

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Courtesy Turns

Courtesy turns are an optional turn made by the handler and dog before starting an individual gaiting pattern. Courtesy turns are used for creating space for lining up, settling down, and moving the dog into its gaiting speed. When using a courtesy turn, you should move quickly and smoothly, without pulling the dog out of position or blocking the judge’s view of the dog.

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Pattern Gaiting

Pattern gaiting refers to the pattern a judge will ask you to perform during your individual exam. The pattern may be as simple as a down and back, or as complex as a T, depending on the age and experience of the class being judged. The Down and Back and Triangle patterns are recommended for younger, less experienced 4-H members. The T and the L patterns are appropriate for more advanced handlers because they require more complicated handling skills such as changing lead hands and gaiting the dog on their right side. The purpose of a gaiting pattern in conformation is for the judge to evaluate the front, rear, and side movement of the dog.

Pattern gaiting is slower and more deliberate than gaiting around the ring. Consider what the judge is looking for in each part of the pattern. Your dog’s speed may vary for coming and going and for side movement.

• When performing any pattern, you should align your dog, not yourself, with the judge before you move away. Every effort should be made to move in a straight line. When the event takes place outdoors or without mats to follow, it is helpful to focus on a spot straight out from the judge in the direction they send you and gait your dog straight toward that spot.
• To perform a gaiting pattern without a courtesy turn, begin by making a tight left turn into the dog, aligning your dog with the judge and gaiting towards the end of the ring, in one seamless movement.
• When using a courtesy turn at the start of a gaiting pattern, begin by moving your dog to the corner of the ring behind the judge. If there is not sufficient space to make your turn behind the judge, a courtesy turn can be made directly in front of the judge. Make a tight about turn to the right, away from your dog, align your dog with the judge, and begin gaiting towards the end of the ring in one seamless movement.
• When moving your dog away from or towards the judge, you want to gait your dog at a speed that will allow the legs to move in a straight line from their body to the ground.
• When you are gaiting your dog in a pattern that shows side movement, you want your dog’s front and rear legs to stride out with full extension.
• Any time you are gaiting your dog, you want your dog to move smoothly, showing the best reach and drive their conformation allows.
• It is not recommended to carry bait in your free hand unless you can hide it while you are moving. You can pull it out of your pocket when you are near the end of your pattern or the end of the line so you can use it for free stacking.
• When you return to the judge at the end of the pattern, it is recommended that you stop about four feet from the judge if you are showing a small to medium-sized breed, and about six feet if you are showing a large breed.
• Do not crowd the judge or get too close. Leave enough space between you and the judge to allow them to walk around your dog or get closer to see the expression. The handler should remain near the head of the dog while the judge is looking at different presentations.
• You may angle the dog to show profile or bring the dog in straight to the judge to show expression. See what techniques are best used with your breed and why.
• While the dog is usually gaited on your left, some patterns, like the L and the T, require gaiting the dog on the right side. Practice moving the lead smoothly between your hands as you turn, and make sure your dog is comfortable gaiting on both sides.

Down and Back Pattern

A Down and Back Pattern allows the judge to see the dogs front and rear movement. As with any gaiting pattern, the Down and Back can be done with or without a courtesy turn.

• At the end of the ring, make a courtesy turn or a tight left turn, whichever is best suited for your dog, and return to the judge.
• Watch and listen for the judge’s signal to stop as you approach. If the judge does not indicate for you to stop either verbally or with a hand signal, you should stop at an appropriate distance from the judge and perform a free stack.

Down and Back Pattern Example

Down and Back Pattern Key

Triangle Pattern

A triangle pattern allows the judge to see the dog’s movement from several sides, and it allows the handler to demonstrate smooth movement at the corners. As with all patterns, you may begin with or without a courtesy turn.

Begin the Triangle pattern by moving directly away from the judge parallel to the edge of the ring. At the end of the ring, make a 90 degree turn toward your dog and continue across the back of the ring to the far corner. At the corner, make a courtesy turn or tight left turn, whichever is best suited for your dog, and return diagonally to the judge.

Triangle Pattern Example

• Keep the dog on the inside of the triangle to avoid any unnecessary hand changes.
• Watch and listen for the judge’s signal to stop as you approach. If the judge does not indicate for you to stop either verbally or with a hand signal, you should stop at an appropriate distance from the judge and perform a free stack.

Triangle Pattern Key

The L Pattern

The L pattern allows the judge to see the dog’s movement from multiple sides, while challenging the handler to move the lead from hand to hand, always keeping the dog in the judge’s view.

• Begin the L pattern by moving directly away from the judge. At the end of the ring, make a 90-degree left turn toward your dog and continue the full length of the ring.
• When you reach the corner, turn towards your dog and switch the lead to your right hand, turning the dog’s head toward you as you turn around so that the dog is on your right side. Retrace your steps to the other side of the ring.
• When you reach the next corner of the ring, switch the lead back to your left hand, turning the dog’s head toward you so the dog is on your left side for the return trip to the judge.
• Handlers may choose to make a 90-degree right turn instead of a hand change on the return trip to the judge.
• Watch and listen for the judge’s signal to stop as you approach. If the judge does not indicate for you to stop either verbally or with a hand signal, you should stop at an appropriate distance from the judge and perform a free stack.

L Pattern Example

L Pattern Key

The T Pattern

The T pattern allows the judge to see the dog’s movement from multiple sides, while allowing the handler to demonstrate several lead hand changes, and that the dog is trained to gait on either side of their body.

T Pattern Example

T Pattern Key

• The judge will ask you to start in the center of one side of the ring. Begin the T pattern by moving directly away from the judge. At the end of the ring make a 90-degree left turn toward your dog and continue in this direction to the corner of the ring. When you reach the corner, turn towards your dog, switch the lead to your right hand, turning the dog’s head toward you as you turn around so that the dog is on your right side, and continue across the top of the ring. When you reach the opposite corner, turn towards your dog, switch the lead back to your left hand, turning your dog’s head toward you as you turn around so that the dog is on your left side and gait back to the point directly across from the judge, make a 90-degree left turn and return to the judge.
• Watch and listen for the judge’s signal to stop as you approach. If the judge does not indicate for you to stop either verbally or with a hand signal, you should stop at an appropriate distance from the judge and perform a free stack.

Pair Gaiting

The purpose of pair gaiting in 4-H showmanship is to allow the judge a side-by-side comparison of how two handlers present the front and rear movement of their dogs. Pair gaiting is performed with two dogs side by side between two handlers, requiring one handler to move away from the judge with the dog on their right side, and the other handler to return to the judge with the dog on their right side. This pattern is reserved for more experienced handlers.

• At the judge’s direction to take the dogs down and back, the handlers will line up their dogs between them. It is appropriate for one of the handlers to ask the other if they are ready.
• Dogs should be spaced three to four feet apart while gaiting to allow for comparison. Avoid moving dogs too close together so they do not distract or interfere with each other.
• Every effort should be made by both handlers to move their dogs at the same speed, without either dog walking, running, or pacing.
• Both handlers will need to switch lead hands at the end of the ring so that the dogs remain side by side between the handlers coming back.
• The two handlers will return to the judge and free stack their dogs.

Unless the judge asks you to face one way or another, it will be up to you to decide how to present your dog when you return to the judge. For safety reasons, it is not advisable to face the dogs toward each other when presenting them to the judge.

Pair Gaiting Example

Pair Gaiting Key

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Stacking

Stacking is the term used for presenting a dog in a precise, stationary pose that allows the judge to evaluate the structure and balance of a dog according to the breed standard.

It is important to learn a combination of hand stacking and free stacking techniques. Learn to stack your dog from either side, front and rear. Your goal should be to be able to properly stack your dog in five seconds.

Learning to Hand Stack Your Dog

• The left side of your dog is considered the show or judge’s side. You will begin by facing your dog on its right side.
• While holding the collar or lead with your left hand, walk your dog to a gradual stop and use the word stand or stay. If your dog sits, you may need to place your left hand at the stifle or knee to encourage the dog to stay standing. Avoid lifting the dog under its stomach. This will cause your dog to roach its back. If your dog sits, you can also try walking your dog in a tight circle and restarting.
• When you begin training your dog to stack, use positive reinforcement such as praise and food rewards, while avoiding harsh corrections or jerking on the lead. Continuing to say stand or stay during this phase will help reinforce the concept you are teaching your dog.
• Be patient! Release and reward with bait when your dog stands for a few seconds. Slowly increase the distance between the bait and the dog’s nose and the time between food rewards to teach the dog to stand for longer periods of time.
• To properly stack your dog, you must have control of the head. Without head control, the dog’s body will follow any movement of the head. Head control is achieved by holding the collar or head under the jaw, with your lead tucked neatly in your hand, while you stack each leg.

• The excess lead should be held or presented neatly, either in the palm of your hand at the collar, or draped around your neck if you are kneeling on the ground or if you have a small breed to present on the table. There are many different and acceptable methods of holding or draping your lead. The objective is to have a smooth and neat presentation, rather than a sloppy lead dangling on the ground or on your dog.
• Wrapping your fingers around the collar and holding up the dog’s head will help you maintain proper head and shoulder positioning. Try to avoid stringing the dog up by the lead to stack by holding the lead instead of the collar. This does not provide good head control and will allow your dog to move. This method should only be used on small breeds or with dogs that have already been taught how to stack.
• Head control can also be achieved with the use of bait. This method works well with puppies or dogs that are food motivated. Allowing the puppy or dog to nibble on the bait can help to distract them while you position their legs. If you are using bait to hand stack your dog, you will need to place your lead around your neck to allow you to hold the bait in your right hand in front of your dog’s nose. Learn the proper baiting position for your dog. Hold the bait at the proper level to present your dog’s head.

• To stack the right front leg next to you, you will need to switch the hand holding the collar or head to your left hand and use your right hand to stack your dog’s right leg. The front legs should be shoulder width apart and parallel with the toes facing forward, unless otherwise specified for your breed.
• Due to their size, small breeds that are presented on a table can be stacked using only the left hand, without needing to switch the hand holding the collar or head. Work with your 4-H leader to determine the best technique for you and your dog.
• Some dog’s front feet turn outward, pointing east or west, or turn inward causing their elbows to point outward. In most breeds, both are considered faults. Although the dog’s structure is not being judged in 4-H Showmanship you will want to show the judge that you know how to minimize the fault by stacking your dog with an emphasis to hide the fault. If your dog’s front feet do not naturally point forward, you can try twisting the leg slightly, setting the foot in the proper position on the ground and shifting the dog’s weight over the leg before you let go of the elbow to help keep the foot positioned properly.

• If your dog moves his feet during the stack, remove the bait and restart, reinforcing the word stand or stay
• If your dog is posting or leaning back and causing the front legs to angle backward instead of being straight up and down, check to see if the legs are stacked properly. Posting can happen if the rear legs are set too far back or the front legs are set too far forward. If the legs are set correctly, lure the dog forward with the bait to encourage the dog to shift its weight over its front.
• As you and your dog learn the art of hand stacking, you may begin to notice your dog choosing to place its feet in a properly stacked position without any prompting from you. When hand stacking your dog, you will only need to place the feet that are out of position, using the same order as stated above; Left front, right front, left rear, and right rear.
• Once your dog has learned to stay in the stacked position, you can practice holding the collar or lead and use bait to present the head or expression.
• It is important to note that not all dogs need to be hand stacked. Some breeds are traditionally baited into a stance, rather than being hand stacked. Work with your 4-H leader to determine proper stacking techniques for your breed.

Learning to Free Stack Your Dog

Free stacking is a technique used by handlers to guide their dog into a standing pose without touching the dog, as one would when hand stacking. Free stacking is most commonly performed when the handler and dog return to the judge after completing an individual gaiting pattern or when returning to the end of the line.

• Your dog will move its feet wherever the bait goes. If you move the bait to the dog’s right, the left leg moves forward and toward the center or crosses over making the dog’s right leg fall naturally in place next to the left leg. You can position the dog’s front legs by moving the bait right or left. Once the front is in place, say stand or stay, and reward the dog with the bait. The back legs will usually fall into place when the dog moves forward.

Front Cross-Over Stacking Method

Table Stacking

Small breeds are usually presented to the judge on a table for the individual exam. Check with your 4-H leader to find out whether your dog should be stacked on a table.

View the current list of AKC table breeds.

You will need to practice with your dog so they feel comfortable stacking on the table without the fear of falling. Many methods can be used to place your dog on a table. Work with your leader to determine what is right for you.

• Ensure the table is stable by applying pressure with your hand to the table top. If it moves, request that the table be repositioned.
• If your dog is too large or heavy for you to lift onto the table safely, the dog should be examined on the ground or on a ramp, if available.
• If it is easier, you can use the scoop method. Scoop the dog up with both arms from the front and back and place it onto the table.

• You may drape the lead around your neck to free up your hands to pick up and stack your dog or for more control, you can hold the collar with the excess lead held neatly in your hand. Whatever method you choose, keep the lead neat, without letting it hang across your dog or the table.

Ramp Stacking

Just as some breeds are stacked on a table, others can be stacked on a ramp for the judge’s individual exam, if one is available. You will need to practice with your dog so they feel comfortable stacking on the ramp. Check with your 4-H leader to find out whether your dog should be stacked on a ramp.

View the current list of AKC ramp breeds.

In 4-H Showmanship, ramps may be used as an alternative for members who are unable to physically lift and present their table dog on a table. Leaders are encouraged to use ramps as a tool to help members progress to table stacking as they grow in size and experience.

AKC Table and Ramp Breeds

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Showing Bite, Teeth, and Mouth

Members are required to show their dog’s bite, teeth, mouth, or all parts, according to their breed standard. The bite refers to how the dog’s front teeth meet, specifically the upper and lower incisors located between the canine teeth. Check with your 4-H leader or the AKC Oral Exam Chart below to determine the proper oral exam requirements for your breed.

AKC Conducting Oral Exams

From American Kennel Club Conducting Oral Exams

The proficient judge alters their examination technique from breed to breed based on the priorities as defined by the standard. It should never be identical from breed to breed to breed. To do so requires interpretation of the written word as to what the standard is attempting to convey to you as the judge. The manner in which a breed’s approved standard is written will define what would constitute conducting a breed specific examination. Close inspection of a breed’s approved standard will determine the appropriate oral exam to conduct when judging that breed, which is an essential component of the breed specific exam. 

Oral exams can be generally divided into four (4) categories which individually or in combination will constitute the proper oral exam for a breed: 

1. Bite – checking the front
2. Teeth – checking the fronts and sides
3. Mouth – involves opening the mouth to count teeth or check pigment. Always used in combination with a “bite” or “teeth” exam depending on the breed
4. Thumb exam – used for smaller, short muzzled breeds that call for an undershot jaw

Bite

This exam is proper when the standard only refers to the alignment of the bite; scissors, level, undershot or overshot, as a preference, fault or disqualification.

This requires the exhibitor or judge separating the front of the lips to display the meshing of the incisors and canines.

Teeth

This is required for any breed that references missing teeth or dentition. This includes disqualifications for missing teeth, and any reference to full dentition or a full complement of teeth as a preference or fault due to a lack thereof.

This requires the exhibitor or judge to separate the front of the lips to display the meshing of the incisors and canines AND the flews on each side of the mouth so the judge may observe the pre-molars and molars on the upper and lower jaw for each.

Note: While a standard may not reference full dentition, some parent clubs may recommend exams beyond checking the bite (front) due to unique characteristics (i.e. upper incisors fitting snugly in back of the lower canine teeth on each side), to inspect for wry mouths, and/or address language that references all teeth (i.e. Teeth – sound, strong and evenly spaced). Please consult with parent club for specific techniques. 

Mouth

Required for any breed that includes a standard disqualification for pigmentation or missing teeth that require checking the M-3s. If the M-3s are excluded from the DQ by the standard (Leonbergers),opening the mouth is not required. It is used in combination with the “bite” and/or “teeth” exam depending on the language within the standard.

Breeds that include a DQ for pigmentation of the mouth but do not reference missing teeth or full (complete) dentition would involve displaying the “bite” and then opening the mouth to check for pigment of the mouth and/or tongue. An example would be the Chinese Shar-Pei which states the bite should be scissors with deviation from being a major fault but also includes that a spotted pink tongue is a major fault and a solid pink tongue is a disqualification. In this case, it is not necessary to “check the sides” as dentition is it not referenced in the standard and the entries are likely not used to this procedure and the lack of familiarity could lead to issues. 

Breeds that do include DQ’s for missing teeth will require that the front and sides be displayed in addition to opening the mouth so the judge can effectively observe the molars. This is necessary whether the applicable disqualification refers to a specific missing tooth or teeth, or whether it relates to a number of missing teeth. 

The tried and true method for counting teeth which is taught by all parent clubs for breeds that include disqualification for missing teeth is to “count by zones”. To count by zones, one must know the types of teeth, and the numbers and locations for each. It is not possible to complete this task competently without this general knowledge. 

Thumb Exam

Involves the judge running the flat of his/her thumb outside of the top lip OR inside the lips of the dog to feel for the proper alignment of the jaw. This procedure is appropriate in smaller, undershot breeds with short muzzles. This is the preferred means to conduct the oral exam for these breeds as it isnot necessary to pry open the mouth and doing so may be problematic and cause the breed to react by squirming or trying to get away. It is recommended that the thumb exam is conducted at the end of the individual examination. A few examples of where this procedure is used would be Japanese Chin, Pugs and Pekingese.

Note: Please be reminded, many exhibitors prefer to open their dog’s mouth themselves for examination. It is recommended that all judges ask the exhibitor to display the bite/teeth/open the mouth as appropriate for that breed. However, you have the authority to personally open the dog’s mouth. In breeds where appropriate, the judge must personally conduct the thumb exam. 

Oral Exam Chart by Breed

The search can be used to find your breed. Y indicates Yes for that breed, N indicates No.

F = Check Front (Incisors & Canines)
S = Check Sides (Premolars & Molars)
O = Open Mouth
T = Thumb Exam

Breed	F	S	O	T
Barbet	Y	N	N	N
Bracco Italiano	Y	N	Y	N
Brittanys	Y	N	N	N
Lagotto Romagnolo	Y	Y	N	N
Pointers	Y	N	N	N
Pointers (German Shorthaired)	Y	Y	N	N
Pointers (German Wirehaired)	Y	Y	N	N
Retrievers (Chesapeake)	Y	N	N	N
Retrievers (Curly Coated)	Y	N	N	N
Retrievers (Flat Coated)	Y	N	N	N
Retrievers (Golden)	Y	Y	N	N
Retrievers (Labrador)	Y	Y	N	N
Nederlandse Kooikerhondje	Y	Y	N	N
Nova Scotia Duck Toll. Retrievers	Y	Y	N	N
Setters (English)	Y	N	N	N
Setters (Gordon)	Y	N	N	N
Setters (Irish)	Y	N	N	N
Setters (Irish Red & White)	Y	N	N	N
Spaniels (American Water)	Y	N	N	N
Spaniels (Boykin)	Y	N	N	N
Spaniels (Clumber)	Y	N	N	N
Spaniels (Cocker)	Y	N	N	N
Spaniels (English Cocker)	Y	N	N	N
Spaniels (English Springer)	Y	N	N	N
Spaniels Field	Y	Y	N	N
Spaniels (Irish Water)	Y	N	N	N
Spaniels (Sussex)	Y	N	N	N
Spaniels (Welsh Springer)	Y	N	N	N
Spinoni Italiano	Y	N	N	N
Vizslas	Y	N	N	N
Weimaraners	Y	Y	N	N
Wirehaired Pointed Griffons	Y	N	N	N
Wirehaired Vizsla	Y	Y	Y	N
Afghan Hounds	Y	N	N	N
American Foxhounds	Y	N	N	N
American English Coonhounds	Y	N	N	N
Azawakh	Y	Y	N	N
Basenjis	Y	N	N	N
Basset Fauve de Bretagne	Y	Y	N	N
Basset Hounds	Y	N	N	N
Beagles	Y	N	N	N
Black & Tan Coonhounds	Y	N	N	N
Bloodhounds	Y	N	N	N
Bluetick Coonhounds	Y	N	N	N
Borzoi	Y	Y	N	N
Cirneco dell’Etna	Y	N	N	N
Dachshunds	Y	N	N	N
English Foxhounds	Y	N	N	N
Grand Basset Griffon Vendeen	Y	N	N	N
Greyhounds	Y	N	N	N
Harriers	Y	N	N	N
Ibizan Hounds	Y	N	N	N
Irish Wolfhounds	Y	N	N	N
Norwegian Elkhounds	Y	N	N	N
Otterhounds	Y	N	N	N
Petits Bassets Griffons Vendeens	Y	N	N	N
Pharaoh Hounds	Y	N	N	N
Plotts	Y	N	N	N
Portuguese Podengo Pequeno	Y	N	N	N
Redbone Coonhounds	Y	N	N	N
Rhodesian Ridgebacks	Y	N	N	N
Salukis	Y	N	N	N
Scottish Deerhounds	Y	N	N	N
Sloughi	Y	Y	N	N
Tree Walker Coonhounds	Y	N	N	N
Whippets	Y	N	N	N
Akitas	X	N	N	N
Anatolian Shepherd	X	N	N	N
Alaskan Malamutes	Y	N	N	N
Bernese Mtn. Dogs	Y	Y	N	N
Black Russian Terrier	Y	Y	Y	N
Boerboel	Y	Y	N	N
Boxers1	Y	Y	N	N
Bullmastiffs	Y	N	N	N
Cane Corsos	Y	Y	Y	N
Chinook	Y	Y	N	N
Danish-Swedish Farmdog	Y	N	N	N
Doberman Pinschers	Y	Y	Y	N
Dogo Argentino	Y	Y	N	N
Dogue De Bordeaux	Y	N	N	N
German Pinscher	Y	Y	N	N
Giant Schnauzers	Y	Y	N	N
Great Danes	Y	Y	N	N
Great Pyrenees	Y	N	N	N
Greater Swiss Mountain. Dogs	Y	N	N	N
Komondorok	Y	Y	Y	N
Kuvaszok	Y	Y	N	N
Leonbergers	Y	Y	N	N
Mastiffs	Y	N	N	N
Neapolitan Mastiff	Y	Y	N	N
Newfoundlands	Y	N	N	N
Portuguese Water Dogs	Y	N	N	N
Rottweilers	Y	Y	Y	N
Saint Bernards	Y	N	N	N
Samoyeds	Y	N	N	N
Siberian Huskies	Y	N	N	N
Standard Schnauzers	Y	Y	N	N
Tibetan Mastiff	Y	Y	N	N
Airedale Terriers	Y	N	N	N
American Hairless Terriers	Y	N	N	N
American Staffordshire Terriers	Y	N	N	N
Australian Terriers	Y	N	N	N
Bedlington Terriers	Y	Y	N	N
Border Terriers	Y	N	N	N
Bull Terriers	Y	N	N	N
Cairn Terriers	Y	N	N	N
Cesky Terriers	Y	Y	N	N
Dandie Dinmont Terriers	Y	N	N	N
Fox Terriers (Smooth)	Y	N	N	N
Fox Terriers (Wire)	Y	N	N	N
Glen of Imaal Terriers	Y	Y	N	N
Irish Terriers	Y	N	N	N
Kerry Blue Terriers	Y	N	N	N
Lakeland Terriers	Y	N	N	N
Manchester Terriers (Standard)	Y	Y	N	N
Miniature Bull Terriers	Y	N	N	N
Miniature Schnauzers	Y	N	N	N
Norfolk Terriers	Y	N	N	N
Norwich Terriers	Y	N	N	N
Parson Russell Terriers	Y	Y	N	N
Rat Terrier	Y	N	N	N
Russell Terrier	Y	N	N	N
Scottish Terriers	Y	N	N	N
Sealyham Terriers	Y	N	N	N
Skye Terriers	Y	N	N	N
Soft Coated Wheaten Terriers	Y	N	N	N
Staffordshire Bull Terriers	Y	N	N	N
Teddy Roosevelt Terriers	Y	N	N	N
Welsh Terriers	Y	Y	N	N
West Highland White Terriers	Y	N	N	N
Affenpinschers	Y	N	N	N
Biewer Terriers	Y	N	N	N
Brussels Griffons		N	N	Y
Cavalier King Charles Spaniels	Y	N	N	N
Chihuahuas	Y	N	N	N
Chinese Crested - Hariless	Y	N	N	N
Chinese Crested - Powderpuff	Y	Y	N	N
English Toy Spaniels	N	N	N	Y
Italian Greyhounds	Y	N	N	N
Havanese	Y	N	N	N
Japanese Chin	N	N	N	Y
Maltese	Y	N	N	N
Manchester Terriers (Toy)	Y	Y	N	N
Miniature Pinschers	Y	N	N	N
Papillons	Y	N	N	N
Pekingese	N	N	N	Y
Pomeranians	Y	N	N	N
Poodles (Toy)	Y	N	N	N
Pugs	N	N	N	Y
Russian Tsvetnaya Bolonka	Y	N	N	N
Russian Toy	Y	N	N	N
Shih Tzu	Y	N	N	N
Silky Terriers	Y	N	N	N
Toy Fox Terrier	Y	N	N	N
Yorkshire Terriers	Y	N	N	N
American Eskimo Dogs	Y	Y	N	N
Bichons Frises	Y	Y	N	N
Boston Terriers	Y	N	N	N
Bulldogs	Y	N	N	N
Chinese Shar-Pei	Y	N	Y	N
Chow Chows	Y	N	Y	N
Coton de Tulear	Y	Y	N	N
Dalmatians	Y	N	N	N
Finnish Spitz	Y	N	N	N
French Bulldogs	Y	N	N	N
Keeshonden	Y	N	N	N
Lhasa Apsos	Y	N	N	N
Löwchen	Y	Y	N	N
Norwegian Lundehunds	Y	N	N	N
Poodles	Y	N	N	N
Schipperkes	Y	N	N	N
Shiba Inu	Y	Y	N	N
Tibetan Spaniels	Y	N	N	N
Tibetan Terriers	Y	N	N	N
Xoloitcuintli - Hairless	Y	N	N	N
Xoloitcuintli - Coated	Y	Y	N	N
Australian Cattle Dogs1	Y	Y	N	N
Australian Shepherds	Y	Y	N	N
Bearded Collies	Y	Y	N	N
Beauceron	Y	Y	Y	N
Belgian Laekenois	Y	Y	Y	N
Belgian Malinois	Y	Y	N	N
Belgian Sheepdogs	Y	Y	N	N
Belgian Tervuren	Y	Y	N	N
Bergamasco Sheepdogs	Y	N	N	N
Berger Picard	Y	Y	N	N
Border Collies	Y	Y	N	N
Bouviers des Flandres	Y	N	N	N
Briards	Y	N	N	N
Canaan Dogs	Y	N	N	N
Cardigan Welsh Corgis	Y	N	N	N
Collies	Y	N	N	N
Entlebucher Mountain Dogs	Y	N	N	N
Finnish Lapphunds	Y	N	N	N
German Shepherd Dogs	Y	Y	N	N
Icelandic Sheepdogs	Y	Y	N	N
Lancashire Heelers	Y	N	N	N
Miniature American Shepherds	Y	Y	N	N
Mudi	Y	Y	N	N
Norwegian Buhunds	Y	Y	N	N
Old Englsh Sheepdogs	Y	N	N	N
Pembroke Welsh Corgis	Y	N	N	N
Polish Lowland Sheepdog	Y	N	N	N
Pulik	Y	Y	N	N
Pumi	Y	Y	N	N
Pyrenean Shepherds	Y	Y	N	N
Shetland Sheepdogs	Y	Y	N	N
Spanish Water Dogs	Y	Y	N	N
Swedish Vallhund	Y	Y	N	N
Alaskan Klee Kai	Y	N	N	N
Bolognese	Y	Y	N	N
Czechoslovakian Vlcak	Y	Y	N	N
Dutch Shepherds	Y	Y	N	N
German Spitz	Y	Y	N	N
Japanese Akitainu	Y	Y	N	N
Kai Ken	Y	Y	N	N
Norrbottenspets	Y	Y	N	N
Peruvian Inca Orchid - Hairless	Y	N	N	N
Peruvian Inca Orchid - Coated	Y	Y	N	N
Portuguese Podengo	Y	N	N	N
Pyrenean Mastiff	Y	Y	N	N
Small Munsterlander	Y	Y	N	N
Yakutian Laika	Y	N	N	N

Chapter 5: 4-H Showmanship Judges’ Guidelines

The Danish System of Judging

The Danish System of judging will be used for 4-H Showmanship. All 4-H exhibitors are judged on their scoresheet. Blue is ranked excellent, indicating a high degree of achievement toward the elements set in the standard for the contest. Red is ranked good in relation to the standard or expected achievement for the class or contest. White is ranked satisfactory or for the standard or expected achievement for the class or contest.

Point division for ribbon awards is as follows:

• Blue Ribbon: 85 to 100 points
• Red Ribbon: 70 to 84.5 points
• White Ribbon: 0 to 69.5 points

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Qualifications

4-H Showmanship Judges should exhibit the following qualifications:

• Demonstrate impartiality and skill in separating the handling ability of the exhibitors they judge from any other consideration.
• Successfully demonstrate the ability to conduct a ring in a consistent, professional, and safe manner that will instill confidence in exhibitors and spectators.
• Utilize proper ring procedures to ensure the safety and consistency, equitable treatment and enjoyment of all exhibitors and their dogs.
• Possess a genuine interest in promoting positive learning experiences for children. Judges should be teachers by example; prompt, courteous, patient, and properly attired.
• Knowledge of the appropriate presentation for the breeds they are to judge. This includes table or ramp presentations, if applicable. A list of breeds will be made available upon request from the judge prior to the event.
• Review the Washington State 4-H Guide to Dog Showmanship and demonstrate an understanding of the expectations of 4-H Showmanship.
• Understand that 4-H Showmanship classes are judged solely on the ability of the 4-H member to properly care for and exhibit their dog to a judge, not the conformation of the dog.

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Safety

Exhibitors will vary in degrees of age and experience. Dogs will vary in size, breed, temperament, and training. Judges will need to establish safe ring conditions and make every effort to ensure the safety of the exhibitors and their dogs during the competition.

• If an exhibitor’s dog is unmanageable, judges may offer guidance or seek guidance from the superintendent or person in charge.
• The handler should warn the judge if their dog is too shy or reserved for physical examination. The handler may show the required parts: teeth, ears, and feet. If the judge cannot place their hands on the dog for the individual exam and to check for mats and cleanliness, the handler is to receive a deduction in Overall Appearance and Exam.
• A dog may be excused from the ring if:
  • The dog is considered unmanageable and the exhibitor is unable to control the dog.
  • The dog is aggressive toward the judge, other exhibitors, or other dogs.
  • If the dog is distracting or disrupting other dogs or exhibitors with menacing behavior.
• Only admit the number of exhibitors that can be safely examined into the ring at one time. Judges should divide the class into smaller groups when:
  • The safety of the dogs and exhibitors is compromised.
  • The exhibitors need more room to gait and show their dogs.
  • The length of time it would take to judge the class would be too demanding for the dogs and exhibitors.
  • Judges should arrange competitors or have advanced exhibitors arrange themselves in the order of gaiting speed, if not already done.

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Responsibilities of the Judge

The judging routine should be consistent with procedures commonly used in the conformation or Junior Showmanship ring in AKC. The number of exhibitors, the size of the ring, the age and experience of the handlers, the ring conditions, the weather, the time of day and time restrictions will all influence the way you set up your ring and what procedures you should use. The responsibilities of a judge in a 4-H Showmanship event are described below.

• Make every effort to evaluate the class of exhibitors in:
  • Proper exhibitor appearance, etiquette, and poise.
  • Proper breed presentation and the ability of the handler to present their dog to the judge to its best advantage. Mixed breeds, purebred, spayed and neutered dogs may be exhibited. Mixed breeds should be handled and presented as the breed they most closely resemble. Some freedom of expression or expertise should be allowed to the exhibitors.
  • The dog’s grooming, condition, and cleanliness.
    • Check the ears for cleanliness.
    • Check the coat for cleanliness and for evidence of care throughout the year.
    • Check to see that the dog’s toenails have been trimmed. An attempt should be made to trim the nails with more emphasis on effort than skill, with consideration to the age and experience of the exhibitor.
  • Knowledge of ring procedures and handling skills.
    • Exhibitors should use the whole ring and not cut corners. Small breeds may make a smaller circle.
    • Exhibitors should be stacked and ready when the last dog returns to the lineup.
• Strive to evaluate exhibitors appropriately and consistently.
• Use the same judging routine for all exhibitors in the ring, giving equal time to each. Watch all exhibitors from start to finish.
• Signal the next exhibitor in line to come out and stack for their individual presentation on the ground, table, or ramp, if available.  If an exhibitor is unable to safely lift or present their table dog on the table, they should be allowed to present the dog on the ground or ramp, if available. The judge should let the 4- H member make that decision.
• Request the exhibitor to show the bite, teeth, mouth, or all parts, according to the breed standard. The judge may use discretion or help younger 4-H members to present the bite. Help may include holding the dog’s head for the exhibitor to present the bite. The judge should note the condition of the teeth according to the age of the dog. Missing or yellow teeth shall not be considered; however, plaque buildup can be penalized.
• Evaluate the dog and handler as a team for overall presentation, timing, and poise.
  • Is the dog responsive to the handler?
  • Do the dog and handler work as a team?
  • Does the dog appear posed or interested?
  • Is the dog moved correctly to the best of its ability?
  • Are the dog’s main faults being minimized?
  • Are major strengths being presented?
  • Do both the dog and handler appear relaxed and confident?
  • Is the dog presented with an apparent minimum of effort using proper timing and poise?
• Offer the option for exhibitors to relax their dogs in line while the other exhibitors are being examined for large classes. This does not mean dogs can lie down or the exhibitors can sit and talk to each other. Glancing down the line from time to time to see what the exhibitors are doing is recommended to see if they are keeping their dogs interested and happy.
• Ask one question from each of the five categories listed below. The event superintendent may provide a list of appropriate questions for each age and experience level for you to choose from, or questions they have preselected for the event.
  1. Parts, Bones, and Anatomy
  2. Breed History and Standard
  3. Care and Health
  4. 4-H General Knowledge
  5. 4-H Dog Project Knowledge
• Consider the following additions to your judging routine by asking exhibitors to:
  • Stack their dogs facing into the ring to present fronts or facing the outside of the ring to present rears.
  • See profiles or walk down the line again to see fronts and expressions.
  • Pair gait their dogs.
  • Do another gaiting pattern.
  • Go around the ring individually or as a group.
  • Return for a call back in the event of a tie and bring those exhibitors back in the ring for a runoff.
• Avoid the following:
  • Asking exhibitors do any patterns other than the down and back, the triangle, the L, or T.
  • Creating unnecessary movement.
  • Trying to trick exhibitors into making mistakes.

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Judging Patterns

Use only those patterns outlined in the 4-H Showmanship manual in Pattern Gaiting. Generally, the less experienced and the younger exhibitors will do the easier patterns.

• The Down and Back pattern is recommended for Cloverbud members.
• The Down and Back and Triangle patterns are good choices for Juniors and first-year members of all ages to understand and accomplish effectively.
• For more experienced Intermediate and Senior members, any of the four patterns can be used. It is recommended to use the down and back or triangle patterns during preliminary rounds. For semi-final, tie breakers or final rounds you may want to advance to a more technical pattern such as the L pattern or T pattern. This should be left to the judge’s discretion.
• The judge should not cause unnecessary movement or awkwardness for the handlers. For example, when examining a group gaiting around the ring, the judge should be inside the circle so as not to create unnecessary movement for the handlers. Weaving in and out of line to cause the handlers to run around their dogs is discouraged. When the dogs are stacked in-line do not move behind the line unless you are going to ask a handler to move in a Down and Back individually or as a pair.
• Whichever method the exhibitor chooses to use, the emphasis should be on how they accomplish the following objectives:
  • Moving smoothly, with the least amount of movement and distraction
  • Keeping their dog in a stack.
  • Not interfering with the judge’s view of the dog.
  • Continuing to present their dog to the judge.