Finding your zone
If you are not sure of your zone, enter your zip code at the USDA site, ask a nearby nursery or Master Gardener clinic. Nursery plant labels will usually indicate zone hardiness. You can go lower than the zone you are in but you should not go higher. For example, if you are in zone 8 you can use plants labeled for zone 7 or below. Plants that thrive in the higher zones are not cold-hardy and will not survive our winters. Throughout Western Washington, varied topography gives rise to many microclimates — areas where local conditions may differ from those of the surrounding climate zone. WSU publication FS181E, “How to Determine Your Garden Microclimate,” is available free at pubs.extension.wsu.edu and can help gardeners understand their unique growing conditions.
Pay attention to Sun and Shade
Plant labels will also indicate the plant’s light requirements.
- Sun: at least 5 to 6 hours of direct sunlight each day during the growing season
- Partial shade: 2 to 4 hours of sun a day
- Shade: only filtered light for the entire day
Sun-loving plants may survive in shade but won’t prosper or bloom well. Shade-loving plants in sun will probably sunburn and may die. For a more detailed glossary of sun, shade and other gardening terms, see Great Plant Picks. The Great Plant Picks site is also an excellent for source for plant recommendations that do well in the Pacific Northwest.
Think Log Term
Choosing plants that become too large for their location is a common gardening mistake. Don’t think about the size of the plant now; consider its full-grown size. The plant tag should tell you the expected height and width of the mature plant. (note: H and W are estimated for the plant at approximately 10 years of age, so long growing species may get significantly larger…plan accordingly). The Sunset Western Garden Book (2012) is a good reference for plant descriptions, including size and cultural requirements.
Select “Short Season” Vegetable Varieties
Even though we have a long growing season, the weather is relatively cool, so you may not be able to grow some of the vegetables that thrive in hotter parts of the country. For example, tomatoes can be successfully grown here, but short-season varieties should be selected. Seed listings in the West Coast Seed Catalogue or Territorial Seed Catalogue, can help you identify vegetable (and flower) varieties that can usually be reliably grown here. Many of those seeds and plants (and more) will be available at local nurseries.
Proper Planting
Most landscape planting is best done in spring or fall. Dig a hole no deeper than the root mass and at least twice as wide. Remove any burlap and tying materials and loosen the roots. You want the roots to spread into native soil, so don’t add any fertilizers, organic matter or other amendments. Place the plant so that the base of the stem or trunk is slightly above the soil surface. Unless the site is windy, don’t stake plants. If you do use stakes, be sure to remove them after one growing season. For more planting advice, see WSU publication FS047E, “Planting Trees and Shrubs in the Landscape,” available at pubs.extension.wsu.edu.
Watering and Mulching
Despite its rainy reputation, the Puget Sound area typically gets only 3 inches of rain for the entire summer. Some plants in your garden need an inch of water a week or more during this time.
The objective of good irrigation is to apply water carefully and slowly so that it wets the entire root zone. Quick, light sprinkling will not do the job. Frequent, shallow watering leads to shallow roots, and shallow roots lead to more rapid stress under dry or hot conditions. Water less frequently: once or twice a week but deeper. Take a trowel and dig down several inches and see whether water has penetrated to that level. Try to avoid watering from above the plant: Getting water on the leaves can encourage fungal diseases.
Consider adding mulch to your landscape. Mulch will help retain moisture, control weeds and contribute to healthy soil. WSU recommends arborist wood chips. See WSU publication FS160E, “Using Arborist Wood Chips as Landscape Mulch”, available at pubs.extension.wsu.edu, for more information.
Mowing
Many people set their mowers too low and cut the grass too short. Set your mower so that it cuts the grass no shorter than 2 to 3 inches. Don’t remove more than one-third of the grass leaf at any one cutting. That will encourage deeper, healthier roots, help retain moisture, and help the grass compete with weeds.
Leave clippings on the lawn; they will quickly decompose and add nutrients back into the soil. Consider using a mulching mower to chop up grass clippings before depositing them on the lawn. Contrary to common belief, grass clippings do not cause a buildup of thatch. Avoid weed & feed fertilizers.