Hands holding worms

Vermiculture

“All the fertile areas of this planet have at least once passed through the bodies of earthworms.” ~ Charles Darwin

What is Vermiculture Composting?

Vermiculture, or vermicomposting, is a composting method that uses worms — most commonly Red wiggler — together with grit and microorganisms they break down food scraps and other organic materials into a stable, nutrient-rich soil amendment known as worm castings. Vermicompost is preferable for household scraps since food scraps do not need hot composting to eliminate pathogens and has a higher nitrogen concentration for plants that need it: it’s fundamentally pure worm manure.

Vermiculture systems can be in-ground, where worms move freely between soil and composting materials, or contained in bins or tray systems that can be used indoors or outdoors.

Why Choose Vermiculture

Vermiculture is especially well suited for managing household food scraps because worms efficiently convert everyday kitchen scraps into high-quality compost while requiring minimal space, equipment, and cost. Composting worms typically consume about 25–50% of their body weight in food per day. A practical rule is that 1 pound of worms can process roughly ½ pound of food scraps per day (about 3–4 pounds per week), allowing households to match worm population size to their food waste volume and scale over time.

Worms like moderate temperature range of 55-77°F where they are most active and productive. They can tolerate temperatures between 39–90°F, but struggle above 90°F and can die if temperatures fall below 40°F or exceed 95°F.

Because these systems operate in a small footprint and focus on food scrap processing, Vermiculture offers an efficient, accessible way to recycle organic waste into a valuable resource for gardens, landscapes, and container plants.

Factors to Consider When Choosing

  • Location: Decide if the bin will be used indoors (kitchen, basement) or outdoors (garden, covered porch). Indoor bins prioritize aesthetics and odor control, while outdoor bins need durability and weather resistance.
  • Capacity: The amount of food waste your household produces will determine the size needed. Many stackable models are expandable if your needs grow over time.
  • Budget: Prices for bins typically range from $40 to over $300, depending on size, features, and design. Worms are often sold separately. There are also more cost-effective options if you are comfortable with DIY.

Getting Started with Vermiculture

How Much to Feed

  • Worms can theoretically eat up to their own weight per day, but a safe, practical approach is 1/3–1/2 of their weight per week.
  • Example: 1 pound of worms → 5–8 ounces of food scraps.
  • Start slowly to prevent soggy, smelly conditions.

When to Feed

  • Add new food only after most of the previous scraps are gone.
  • Feeding based on consumption—not a strict schedule—keeps the bin balanced.

Preparing Food

  • Chop or blend scraps to speed decomposition. Worms rely on microbes, not teeth.
  • Coffee grounds, tea leaves, soft fruits, and vegetables are easiest.
  • Coarser pieces are okay; they will eventually break down.
  • Freezing scraps before feeding slows spoilage and softens tougher items.

What to Feed

  • Safe & easy: Fruits and vegetables, Coffee grounds and tea leaves, Shredded paper, cardboard, coconut coir
  • Moderation: Citrus, fatty foods, dairy, and meat in small bins
  • Slow to decompose: Bones, corn cobs, broccoli stems
  • Myths: Onions, garlic, and spicy foods are fine—worms have no taste buds.

Tip: shredding materials including food creates more surface area that expedates decomposition.

Worm Population

  • Red wigglers can double their population roughly every 3 months if they have enough space and food.
  • Start small, expand with population growth.
  • More worms = more food-processing power, but overfeeding risks remain.

  • Soft fruits & vegetables: a few days to a week
  • Coffee grounds & tea leaves: 1–2 weeks
  • Tougher scraps: 2–4 weeks
  • Bones/fibrous items: several months

Are you feeding them enough?

On track: Food gone within ~1 week, earthy smell, active worms.

Overfed: Slimy, smelly food → reduce feeding, add bedding.

Underfed: Food disappears quickly, worms very active → increase scraps gradually.

  1. Track Normal Feeding
    • Observe how much worms eat for a week or two before leaving.
  2. Avoid Overfeeding: Only provide the amount they would normally consume.
  3. Add Slow-Breaking Food & Extra Bedding
    • Use corn cobs, banana peels, broccoli stems, etc.
    • Extra bedding acts as backup food.
  4. Check Moisture
    • Bin should be damp but not wet. Cover with damp cardboard if needed.
  5. Optional: Worm Sitter
    • For absences longer than 3–4 weeks, ask a friend to feed pre-portioned scraps.
    • Simple instructions: bury food under bedding, avoid overfeeding.

Long Absences: Worms can survive months on bedding alone. Population may reduce, but cocoons will hatch once normal feeding resumes.

Returning Home: Inspect bin and population, add fresh bedding and a small amount of food and then gradually return to regular feeding routine.

IssueCauseSolution
Smelly BinOverfeeding, excess moistureRemove excess food, add dry bedding, stir gently
Slimy FoodToo much moistureReduce food, mix in dry bedding
Escaping WormsWet, acidic, or overcrowdedAdjust moisture, add bedding, reduce food
Slow DecompositionFood not chopped, low populationChop/blend food, allow worms to grow
Pests (fruit flies)Overripe food, exposed scrapsCover food with bedding, reduce feeding

Vermiculture Composting Systems

Stackable tray vermiculture composting system

Stackable Tray Systems

These multi-level bins have several trays where worms migrate upwards to new food sources, leaving finished compost in the lower trays for easy harvesting. They are a popular and expandable choice for indoor or covered outdoor use.
In-Ground Composter using worms

In-Ground Worm Composter

The In-Ground design is buried directly in a garden bed, allowing worms to move freely between the bin and the surrounding soil. This method directly enriches the garden soil and offers excellent odor control.
Continuous Flow Bins with worms. Wood frame holding plastic bin with catchment below.

Continuous Flow Worm Bin

Bins with a unique tapered design allows finished compost to be harvested from the bottom without disturbing the worms at the top. They are often larger capacity unit made from a fabric based construction or solid plastic form.
Wooden box with lid and no bottom sitting on ground as a worm composting unit for food scraps.

On Ground Worm Compost Bin

A contained system designed to sit in the yard with drainage and a tight lid to control moisture and pests, it offers a simple, low-odor way to recycle household food waste into a powerful natural soil amendment.
photo credit: On This Trail

DIY Worm Bins

Many options for DIY Worm Bins that include bucket systems, tubs, wooden trays, ground bins, and In-ground vermiculture composters. Price varies depending on material costs, although these options typically allow you to make use of items you may already have.

Transferring Worms to New Bedding

Harvesting worm casting starts with separating the worms from the material. First you’ll need to take a pause on how you are incorporating the food source and use it as a tool. There are three options for transferring to new bedding:

  • Move all material in the worm bin to one side of bin, then add new bedding and food material to the other side of the bin and let them migrate on there own as the old pile becomes less desirable and lacks a food source.
  • Use a light source and the worms will move away. One option is to make multiple small piles on a tarp with an overhead light. The worms move to the bottom of the pile so as the upper material is removed, the worms have collected in the bottom center of the pile. Pickup and move to their new location.
  • Dump the bin onto a tarp and pick them out by hand.
  • Using a tray system, the worms will continue to migrate upward toward new food, allowing the most bottom tray to be removed, and cleaned, and then added to the top of the tray system waiting for new material.

Vermiculture Overview Resources


Books
  • Worms Eat My Garbage By: Mary Appelhof and Joanne Olszewski
  • Black Gold – Worm Farming 101: A Practical Guide to the Essentials of Vermiculture & Vermicomposting for Beginners By Pat Blackburn
  • The Worm Farmer’s Handbook: Mid- to Large-Scale Vermicomposting for Farms, Businesses, Municipalities, Schools, and Institutions by Rhonda Sherman

Website Resources*

DIY Worm Bins

Suppliers *

*Note: WSU Extension does not endorse specific products. These are provided as an example of what and where you can purchase some of the necessary items.


Use of Worm Castings

Funding for this education is provided by Kitsap County Public Works, Solid Waste Division.

Kitsap County Public Works Solid Waste Division